Five Fast Sprinkler Repairs

Use this DIY quick guide to common springtime sprinkler fixes.

DIY sprinkler repair

POSTED BY: Mike Berger
May 16, 2012

In-ground sprinkler systems do an excellent job of keeping lawns green, plants healthy and watering chores to a minimum. Although they can provide years of reliable service when properly cared for, they occasionally need repairs, especially in the spring when they’re first put back into service. Luckily, the types of problems you’re likely to encounter are simple to diagnose, and their solutions are usually fairly easy.

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Repair 1: Fixing a Broken Sprinkler Line
As the freeze-and-thaw cycle of the seasons causes the ground to shift, over time the sprinkler system’s main water-supply lines can crack or separate. You’ll know this has happened if you find a consistently wet or muddy spot where a line is buried. To fix it, first dig away the soil to expose the buried line. If it has simply pulled apart, clean the pipe ends; then use PVC solvent to reattach the pipe. (Wait a day before you reactivate the system.) For cracked PVC lines, use a hacksaw to cut away the damaged section. If, however, you have black polyethylene supply tubing (PE), cut the line at the break, insert a brass coupling into the tube ends and use hose clamps to secure the tube ends to the coupling.

Repair 2: Replacing a Sprinkler Head
Just as lines can break, sprinkler heads can snap off. To replace one, first dig away the soil until you expose the entire sprinkler head and the coupling that joins the head’s riser to the supply tubing. Unscrew the damaged head from the riser; then unscrew the riser from the coupling. Inspect the riser for any damage and replace if necessary by screwing the new riser into the coupling; then screw the new sprinkler head onto the riser.

Repair 3: Aiming a Sprinkler Head
If you’ve replaced a sprinkler head or changed your landscaping, you’ll probably need to adjust the aim or spray pattern of the head. Adjusting the aim can be as simple as turning a screw on the top of the sprinkler head. To adjust the spray pattern, you’ll need to replace the sprinkler head’s flow nozzle. Different nozzles are available for different patterns, and they usually snap into place.

Repair 4: Moving a Sprinkler Head
If you’ve changed your yard’s hardscaping or added shrubs or other plants, you may need to move a sprinkler head. To avoid running new supply lines, install a flexible extension. These short lines use either a saddle fitting to attach to the supply line in midrun or an elbow to attach to the end of a supply line, and they allow you to offset the sprinkler head by as much as 2 ft.

Repair 5: Adding an Auxiliary Sprinkler Line
If a line is severely damaged or if you’re redesigning your sprinkler system, you’ll probably need to run new supply tubing from the sprinkler system’s manifold. The easiest way to do this is by renting a gas-powered trencher that can make fast work of cutting the soil to the correct depth for a new supply line. If you’ve never used a trencher before, ask the representative at the tool-rental store to walk you though its operation.

Comments

By Brian Correll Wednesday, July 25, 2012 8:32 AM

I seem to get leaky/stuck solenoid valves that cause the sprinklers to not shut off, or leak water down the street. What can be done to prevent this from happening? Is there any routine maintenance that can be done on these solenoid valves? How often should these be disassembled and the orings replaced, etc?

By wjyeager Tuesday, July 31, 2012 7:52 PM

There are two main reasons that the valve will stick on. The post may be stuck inside the solenoid and not moving properly. The main thing I find is that the diaphragm either has a pinhole in it, or it may just be dirty. Clean or replace the diaphragm. Be sure to line up the holes properly, water must be able to reach the top of the diaphragm when the valve is actuated.

By Harried Harry Monday, September 03, 2012 3:34 PM

I am installing new lines for my irrigation system. The main line is 2" PVC schedule 40 while the secondary line (to the 3/4" faucets is (mostly) schedule 40 1.25" PVC. Yesterday I leak tested the lines by putting in the water. I had three leaks. The critical leaks are wherever I have a reduction from the 2" to the 1.25" the line. What is causing this and what can I do to make a permanent fix. I have about 250 feet of trench open which makes it hard to get around the yard and is a concern since we do need to walk in the yard.

By HandymanClub.com Tuesday, September 04, 2012 8:14 AM

Harried Harry, I'm not sure why the leaks are happening only at the reduction joints. The diameter of the reducer must not match up exactly with the pipe. I'm not sure what the best fix is. I think you should post this question in the Exteriors, Yards and Landscaping section of the Forums. Here's a link: http://www.handymanclub.com/connect/forums/aff/94 . I bet one of our Forums participants has more experience with sprinklers.

By ramtrol Wednesday, May 08, 2013 3:28 PM

The fittings are always the weakest link in any piping system. The cause could be over pressure in the water system, air in the line, or impurities in the water that could be eroding the fitting from the inside. The is commonly seen in gas piping systems where the gas is dirty and small particles act as sandblast agent.

Pressure wise, you did not state what the water pressure is. You must find that out to see if the water pressure is exceeding the pipe burst pressure.

Once you eliminate over pressure as a culprit, i would udgrade the water system to a Sch 80 or greater at least at the fittings....Another thing I may add would be air hammers at the spigots to reducer water hammer.

Hope this helps

By Harried Harry Tuesday, May 14, 2013 4:28 PM

I found the problem. I was not holding the joints tight enough or long enough for the cement to weld the joint together. I was letting it go after about 10 seconds, which allowed the pipe to slide back slightly so it was not a tight bond. Now I hold the pipe and joins together for at least a minute so the weld holds and sets up. For large pipe, like 1.5" or 2", I use two ropes wrapped around the two pipes to be joined, then I create a loop in one rope and run the bight through it and pull the pipe together after I've put the cement on. I pull as tight as I can and hold it for a minute. Since I started doing this, no more leaks.