This small table is a companion piece to the “Easy Chair” Workshop project shown in HANDY’s June/July 2010 issue, p. 11-16. Its appearance and construction method are similar to the chair’s, which makes it an Easy Table – especially if you’ve already built the chair.

All joints are attached with exterior-rated glue and screws. (Remember to drill pilot holes to prevent splitting the wood.) Also, our cutting list dimensions are based on 7/8-in.-thick stock (cedar), but you should check the thickness of your lumber before cutting the parts.

Frame the sides
As with the chair, start by assembling the table’s side frames. Cut the legs (A) and outside rails (B) to length; then add 1/2-in. chamfers in the outside ends of the rails. For each side, attach two legs and two rails, checking for square. Use the side-view illustration (A) as a guide. Fasten each corner with glue and two 2-1/2-in. (countersunk) screws. (The screwheads will be hidden with plugs later.)

Before adding the side slats, bridge the two side assemblies between the stretchers (E) as shown in photo 1. Clamp the frames together while you drive two 2-1/2-in. screws at each end of the stretchers.

Cut the slats (D) to length and attach them to the inner sides of the side rails, spacing as shown in the side-view illustration. Drive 1-1/4-in. screws through the slat ends and into the outside rails. Next, place the inside rails (C) aligning them with the slat ends and attach them by driving two 1-1/4-in. screws into each end. The rails should fit between the stretchers (E) as shown in the cutaway view (illustration B).

Add a shelf and top
Cut the shelf slats (H) to length. Space them evenly apart (approximately 3/8 in.) and center them lengthwise on top of the inside rails. Their ends will be recessed from the table legs by 5/8 in. (photo 2). Fasten the slats to the lower stretchers with one 1-1/4-in. screw (countersunk) at each end.

For a bit of design interest, we alternated the widths of the tabletop slats, using 1x4 lumber for the two outside slats and the center slat, and 1x3 boards for the 2nd and 4th slats (see illustration C). We also cut a 1-in. radius on the four corners of the tabletop. Place a 1/4-in. spacer between the slats.

Finishing Touches
Soften the tabletop edges using a router with a 1/8-in. roundover bit or sandpaper. To hide any exposed screws, install plugs, trim them flush and sand smooth. Add a stain or paint finish to match your easy chair.

Photo 1
To complete the table frame, attach the stretchers (E) to the two side assemblies. Drive these screws flush with the surface; they will not be visible when the table is complete.


Photo 2
Use a 1/4-in. spacer between the tabletop slats as you install them. Drill counterbores before driving 1-1/4-in. screws so you can add plugs later. The finished shelf should be set in from the legs at both ends.


Illustration A

Illustration B

Illustration C

Finished Table

Materials and Cutting List