The next time a light switch goes out or a pipe springs a leak in the middle of the night, don't waste valuable time searching for the necessary tools and supplies. The best way to avoid such hassles is to keep everything organized in a central location. This cabinet provides a perfect solution: It features an open work surface and a variety of storage options, such as lower cubbies sized to hold several tool cases.
This project is intended to suit the storage needs of a homeowner with a basic set of hand tools and portable power tools, but it will also work well for specific purposes in an established shop. For example, it's an ideal sharpening center for storing chisels, planes and scrapers.
I included metal drawers and an overhead light in my design, but you can easily add any accessories you like, such as a small vise or large hooks on the sides for extension cords.
The cabinet carcase is built entirely of plywood, and you only need a circular saw, a jigsaw and a drill/driver to complete construction. The project costs less than $200, including the light, four metal drawers, a power strip and paint.
CLICK HERE to download the full PDF of this project, including diagrams and materials list, click here.
Cut the parts
You'll need to set up a work surface for cutting the large sheets of plywood. The surface can be as simple as a couple of straight 2x4s placed on the garage floor, but it is safer and easier if you raise the surface to a comfortable working height. I like to place a simple 2x4 wood frame on a set of sawhorses.
You can buy a straightedge to guide your circular saw, or you can make your own. I used a straightedge and circular saw that are designed to work together to produce very accurate results (photo 1). For a fraction of the cost, you can also get great results from a shop-made straightedge.
Follow the plywood cutting diagrams on p. 18 to make efficient use of your plywood. It's OK to mark a rough layout of the parts on the plywood for organizational purposes, but do not use these lines as cutting guides. This technique does not take into account the thickness of the blade kerf, so many of the pieces would be too small. For the most accurate results, measure and mark one cut at a time.
Mark the locations of the slots
that will accept the metal drawer trays on the right side and the vertical divider. The trays are designed to fit into slots the thickness of a saw blade kerf, about 1/8 in. The slots are spaced 1-1/4 in. apart, allowing you to arrange the 1-, 2- and 3-in. drawer trays in different configurations to suit your needs. Set the circular saw to a cutting depth of 1/4 in., and use a straightedge guide when cutting each slot (photo 2).
Finally, cut the sides, vertical divider and work top to size with a jigsaw.
Paint the parts
Paint all of the parts before assembling the cabinet. Don't worry that the paint will interfere with glued joints — screws are the only fasteners necessary.
Sand all sides and edges of the parts with 150-grit sandpaper. Then apply one coat of primer and two coats of latex satin or semigloss paint to all plywood parts as well as the pegboard spacers and wall cleat. I used gray paint for all of the parts except the underside of the top and the left face of the vertical divider, which I painted white to match the pegboard. Use a roller or sprayer for the easiest application and smoothest finish.
Assemble the cabinet
Assemble the parts with 2-in. coarse-thread screws. (Drywall or deck screws work well.) Drill a countersink and pilot hole sized for a No. 8 screw before driving each screw. Begin by attaching the sides, bottom and cubby dividers to the back (photo 3). Next, attach the work top and then the shelves and the vertical divider. Finally, attach the top (photo 4).
The door contains four fixed shelves. You can add, remove or reposition the shelves to suit your storage needs. Attach a shelf lip to each shelf; then attach the shelves to the door sides and door back. Attach one additional shelf lip 3-1/2 in. above the top shelf lip.
Hang the cabinet
You can hang the cabinet on a finished wall surface or on exposed studs. If the wall is finished, mark the stud locations. The cabinet must be fastened to at least two studs, so avoid aligning the sides over any studs. Place the cabinet on the floor in front of the studs. Mark the stud locations on the cabinet; then measure down 3 in. and 24 in. from the top. Drill 1/4-in.-dia. clearance holes through the cabinet back (photo 5).
I positioned the wall cleat 28 in. above the floor and anchored it to the studs with 3-in. screws. At this mounting height the work top ends up 42 in. above the floor and there is room under the cabinet for a shop vacuum. With a helper, lift the cabinet onto the cleat. Using the clearance holes as a guide, drill 3/16-in.-dia. pilot holes in the studs. Attach the cabinet to the wall with 1/4 x 3-in. lag screws (photo 6).
Mark the hinge-hole locations on the side of the door. Drill 1/4-in.-dia. pilot holes at each location. Fasten the hinges to the door with 1/4- x 1-1/4-in. machine screws and locknuts. Then place a 1/8-in.-thick spacer under the door (a piece of corrugated cardboard works well) and position the door flush with the right cabinet side. Drill pilot holes and fasten the hinges to the cabinet side (see photo 7).
Now install the pegboard, power strip and lighting. The pegboard must be spaced away from the cabinet back and sides to provide room for the hooks. Attach the pegboard spacer strips with 1-1/4-in. screws. Then fasten the pegboard to the spacers with 1-1/4-in. screws (photo 8).
Fasten the power strip to the bottom right corner of the pegboard. Drill 1-1/4-in. exit holes for the cord through the work top and bottom.
Next, follow the manufacturer's instructions for installing the lights. I chose to use an 18-in. fluorescent fixture. You could also use a set of under-cabinet halogen "puck" or pot lights.
I included an additional shelf that hangs on the pegboard. The adjustable shelf is supported by brackets that hang on the pegboard (available where pegboard hooks are sold). Finally, install the metal drawer trays and fill the cabinet with your tools and supplies.
The next time you need to repair something, you'll know where to find the right tool for the job.
CLICK HERE to download the full PDF of this project, including diagrams and materials list, click here.