jpromovitz
New Poster
Posts:32
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| 07-28-2010 11:08 AM |
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My neighbor gave me a push lawnmower and a new blade for it. He tried to get the bolt out to change the blade but it won't budge. I have tried WD40, PB Blaster, a torch, vice-grips, etc...I'm tempted to cut it off but how would I get the shaft of the bolt out? I also thought bout cutting a slit in the head so I can get a screwdriver on it.... |
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Dewey
Senior Poster
Posts:7315
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| 07-28-2010 11:12 AM |
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Have you tried an impact gun? If that doesn't do it, maybe a pipe wrench w/ an entension on the handle if necessary. Not to insult your intelligence, but are you sure you are turning it in the right direction? A little heat on the shaft may help but don't over do it. |
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Anything worth dewing, is worth dewing well!
I'm dewing my time in southwest Indiana.
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jpromovitz
New Poster
Posts:32
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| 07-28-2010 11:14 AM |
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I thought maybe I wasn't turning it the right way also, but it won't budge either way. I don't have an impact gun... |
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Dewey
Senior Poster
Posts:7315
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| 07-28-2010 11:20 AM |
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Posted By jpromovitz on 07-28-2010 12:14 PM
I thought maybe I wasn't turning it the right way also, but it won't budge either way. I don't have an impact gun... If you have a tire shop or local ,echanic, I'm sure they would be kind enough to zip it out for you. Another thing you could try that my Dad taught me years ago, is give the head of the bolt a rap with a hammer before trying to loosen it. This will often jar it loose. Don't smack it hard enough to do any engine damage, just a good solid rap should do. Also remember a 6 point socket will work best. |
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Anything worth dewing, is worth dewing well!
I'm dewing my time in southwest Indiana.
Useful links below :
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Gerry_D
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jdeere
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| 07-28-2010 10:12 PM |
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heat and an impact wrench (if not an impact wrench, a 6 point box end wrench, or a 1/2" 6 point socket and breaker bar, NOT a rachet, and hit with a hammer) Bolt should be standard right hand thread. When the blade spins, it tightens the bolt. Heating the bolt is tricky as the proper way is to heat the crankshaft, but the hub the blade is mounted to will absorb the heat. You can try heating the head of the bolt, but the hub is going to act like a heat sink and help keep the end of the crankshaft cool. You are limited to the amount of heat you can use as it is possible to do damage with excessive heat. As Dewey said, a few sharp cracks with a hammer on the head of the bolt, might help break it loose.
For what it's worth, you should never use vise grips in a situation like this. You will ruin the head of the bolt and won't be able to get a wrench on it. Always use a 6 point wrench in these situations. Likewise cutting a slot for a screwdriver won't work because a proper fitting wrench will allow you to apply more torque to the bolt than is possible with a scewdriver. |
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| Bart from Saskatchewan, Canada |
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Slug-Gunner
Veteran Poster
Posts:2210
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| 07-28-2010 10:36 PM |
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Posted By jpromovitz on 07-28-2010 12:14 PM
I thought maybe I wasn't turning it the right way also, but it won't budge either way. I don't have an impact gun...
You don't need an 'impact gun', but an inexpensive 'impact driver' using a hammer as shown below will work perfectly for what you need to do. I used them all the time before moving up to air/electric impact tools when I was much younger. They have a 1/2" square drive tip which you can put a 6-pt socket (preferably an 'impact rated' socket) and then hit it with the hammer to loosen a 'tight/stuck' nut or bolt..... or you can use it to tighten something also. I use to use them with the screw adapters to remove sidecovers on motorcycle engine/trans sidecovers or stubborn axle bolts, and also on stubborn lug nuts. They always worked for me. Be sure you are using the appropriate sized 6-pt socket for the blade hub.... some of the newer (made in China) mowers have 'metric' sized fasteners on them. The following can be found at Harbor Freight or at many auto parts/tool areas.  Item #37530 |
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| Slug-Gunner - - - Augusta, GA - - - Keep an "Open Mind" = You'll NEVER STOP LEARNING! |
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ChuckJ
Advanced Poster
Posts:710
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| 07-29-2010 06:34 AM |
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I agree with Gerry about using the 2X4 to hold the blade and the 6 point socket with breaker bar. I'd also add to use a length of pipe over the breaker bar. It will give you much more leverage and create much more torque. |
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| Professional Jeweler - The guy who gets his hands dirty making jewelry, not the guy who wears a suit and sells jewelry. - - Washington, NJ |
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ssmigin
Basic Poster
Posts:190
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| 07-29-2010 08:02 AM |
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Posted By ChuckJ on 07-29-2010 07:34 AM
I agree with Gerry about using the 2X4 to hold the blade and the 6 point socket with breaker bar. I'd also add to use a length of pipe over the breaker bar. It will give you much more leverage and create much more torque. Be careful with that one, though! I've broken a lot of bolts this way, even the hardened and "grade 8" bolts will snap right off. It's a good trick if your tired or don't have room to get leverage on the breaker bar, but after spending 2 days drilling out the remains of a hardened bolt, I'm not going to do it again. |
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Steven -- Overland Park, KS (a stone's throw from Kansas City)
"I don't have time to be this busy" - Garfield |
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Slug-Gunner
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Posts:2210
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| 07-29-2010 09:07 AM |
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Posted By ssmigin on 07-29-2010 09:02 AM
Posted By ChuckJ on 07-29-2010 07:34 AM
I agree with Gerry about using the 2X4 to hold the blade and the 6 point socket with breaker bar. I'd also add to use a length of pipe over the breaker bar. It will give you much more leverage and create much more torque.
Be careful with that one, though! I've broken a lot of bolts this way, even the hardened and "grade 8" bolts will snap right off. It's a good trick if your tired or don't have room to get leverage on the breaker bar, but after spending 2 days drilling out the remains of a hardened bolt, I'm not going to do it again.
I have to agree with Steve on this one.... in 40+ years of automotive work I've broken many, many bolts and studs and can tell you that USING A CHEATER BAR TO INCREASE LEVERAGE will do it more often. I'd have to agree with those suggesting hitting the head of the bolt with a hammer or using a mallet or piece of wood to smack the handle SHARPLY (in both directions) will often 'free up' the rust bond/weld that has most likely occurred between the bolt and blade adapter (especially if its aluminum alloy (bi-metallic corrosion). Since this is also the end of the crankshaft output shaft, too much heat applied can affect the temper of the metal and may cause a dangerous situation if it breaks when hitting a rock or root in the ground. In order to get the PB-Blaster to work effectively, you need to drain the oil and gas and turn the mower upside down (so gravity will allow it to penetrate better). With it upside down, the IMPACT DRIVER I mentioned above will be your best bet. Since you already tried VICE-GRIPS on it,, you may have already damaged the bolt head enough so a socket won't fit properly any more. Once you get the bolt out (by whatever means), be sure to replace it with at least a Grade 8 or better NEW BOLT and run a tap into the old bolt hole threads to clean them up. Be sure it is the proper type (metric or SAE) and thread pitch to match the old one. Cross-threading a mower blade retaining bolt can end up being VERY DANGEROUS if it decides to 'let go' while in use. Since the mower was FREE, you have a minimum investment in it and changing the oil and gas is probably needed anyway. Also, be sure to check the carb float bowl for sediment or water and clean it up too.... no point in going thru all this 'work' and then NOT BE ABLE TO GET IT STARTED/RUNNING.  |
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| Slug-Gunner - - - Augusta, GA - - - Keep an "Open Mind" = You'll NEVER STOP LEARNING! |
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Gerry_D
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Dewey
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| 07-30-2010 01:54 AM |
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Posted By Gerry_D on 07-29-2010 11:37 PM
Ya' know it hasn't been mentioned and I'd like to throw it up for discussion in this sort of application.
Teflon Tape.
When that bolt is eventually removed, wouldn't a symmetrical wrap of common plumber's Teflon tape help as an anti-sieze precaution for the next time?
My guess would be the reason it is hard coming out is because whoever put it in before over toqued it. |
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Anything worth dewing, is worth dewing well!
I'm dewing my time in southwest Indiana.
Useful links below :
NEW MEMBERS; PLEASE READ FIRST
also;
For New Members....
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JSchaben
Veteran Poster
Posts:1155
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| 07-30-2010 09:48 PM |
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Posted By Gerry_D on 07-29-2010 11:37 PM
Ya' know it hasn't been mentioned and I'd like to throw it up for discussion in this sort of application.
Teflon Tape.
When that bolt is eventually removed, wouldn't a symmetrical wrap of common plumber's Teflon tape help as an anti-sieze precaution for the next time?
Teflon tape might work, but in this application I prefer the good ol' Anti-sieze. Tube of it only runs a couple of bucks and I usually misplace it before it's empty. Use it on the the control cables also. I have been thinking on this one for a couple of days. This bolt is tapped into the crankshaft? Most I remember that used bolts used two bolts into a mounting flange keyed onto the crankshaft. A single bolt was generally a nut and the crankshaft was threaded for it. What make is this mower? Pic might help. |
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| John -
The problem with experience is I usually get it immediately after I need it. |
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Oldman
Veteran Poster
Posts:4599
 
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| 08-01-2010 05:09 AM |
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As suggested... remove/drain all liquids from the mower. Load it up and head to a Tire Repair facility and ask to have them use their Impact Gun to remove the bolt. |
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| Wishing all a good day and a better one tomorrow from central Mich. in the small town of Owosso |
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jdeere
Veteran Poster
Posts:1305
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| 08-01-2010 06:45 PM |
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Posted By JSchaben on 07-30-2010 10:48 PM
I have been thinking on this one for a couple of days. This bolt is tapped into the crankshaft? Most I remember that used bolts used two bolts into a mounting flange keyed onto the crankshaft. A single bolt was generally a nut and the crankshaft was threaded for it. What make is this mower? Pic might help.
I don't remember many, if any, that had a threaded crankshaft and a nut. What use to be common was a hub that had a bolt in the center into the crankshaft and then 2 smaller bolts, 1 on each side that held the blade to the hub. Some of the hubs were keyed, and some weren't, to the crankshaft.
Someone else mentioned the bolt being overtorqued the last time it was installed. That is possible, but the direction of rotation of the crank is designed to tighten the bolt. |
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| Bart from Saskatchewan, Canada |
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jpromovitz
New Poster
Posts:32
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| 08-22-2010 01:29 PM |
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Sorry bout not posting lately about this. Been busy with grad. parties, family reunion and the weather. My neighbor did have an impact wrench, just forgot to tell me. But it did get the bolt out. Thanks for all the helpful ideas, I prob. would of just cut it off and drilled it out. |
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