I wouldn't consider changing the transmission on my truck, but I recently hauled our 7 - year - old washing machine out into the garage and replaced its transmission in a couple of hours.

This is the kind of repair that wouldn't make any financial sense if it meant hiring a professional appliance repairman to do the job (about $350 where we live). On the other hand, for $109 (after the $138 rebate from General Electric Co.), our washer is back in business again.

The lessons here are threefold:
• If you detect a problem with a major appliance, don't automatically schedule a repairman or rush out to buy a new model. Instead, call a repair shop or the manufacturer's toll - free service line. Describe the symptoms and find out how much the replacement parts cost, whether specialized tools or equipment are needed to replace the faulty parts and generally how to go about the repair.
• Always ask whether the manufacturer offers a rebate if you return the old part. Because GE had experienced problems with leaky transmission seals, it gave me credit toward the $238 for the factory - refurbished transmission. If I hadn't asked, I might have paid full price for the part.
• As you approach the appliance repair project, be organized and methodical. When you undertake this type of job, the answers will reveal themselves if you take it slow and start with good advice. It also helps to read every word on every piece of packaging before you begin, but more on that later.
• We knew something was wrong with our washer when it started to make a metal - on - metal grinding sound. Then we noticed a small puddle of oil had spread from under the machine. One call to an appliance repair shop confirmed that the transmission was the problem. When I got the estimate for the labor, I called the GE service line and ordered parts to do the repair myself. You'll need model and serial numbers to order replacement parts.
I couldn't have made this repair without pointers from a local service center. Most important, I learned that the transmission needed to come out through the top of the washer. That meant the agitator, the inner tub and the outer tub had to come out first.

Out with the old
All it takes to replace a GE washing machine transmission are good organization and a few basic tools (screwdrivers, a socket set and pliers).

Begin by unplugging the washer from the electrical outlet. Turn off the water supply valves and disconnect the supply lines. Be careful - they will be full of water. Disconnect the drain line and move the washer so you can flip the top up and still access the motor from the back. Remove the hardboard back so you can reach the pump and the various hoses.
TIP: Put the screws in a container so they can be organized and even labeled. There will be many by the time you are through.

To remove the faulty transmission, start by unlatching and lifting the top of the washer. Slide a stiff putty knife between the top and the case along the front edge to find the spring clips. There are two, located about 8 in. from the corners. While holding the knife level, push straight toward the back of the washer and lift the corner of the top a bit. Then repeat the process with the other clip. Be sure to support the top after you tip it back or its weight will snap the flimsy plastic hinges along the back edge.

Unfortunately, the transmission is buried under a series of concentric parts, all of which have to come out before you can remove it.

Start by removing the agitator, the spiral mechanism that rotates back and forth in the tub. Use a flat screwdriver to pry the plastic cap off the top of the agitator. This will expose a large screw. Remove it and you will be able to lift the retainer cap off the agitator. Then the agitator itself will lift off. If your washer is like mine, the underside of the agitator will be coated with enough soap scum to make a grown man gag, so be forewarned.

After the agitator is out, remove the plastic bushing it rides on from the bottom of the inner tub. Just squeeze the tabs and it will release from the transmission shaft.

The next step is to remove the inner tub, the one with holes in it. First remove the plastic skirt from around the top. You'll find three bolts on the bottom of the tub forming a triangle around the transmission shaft. Don't be surprised if they are rusted. After seven years, mine were. I found that a few shots of WD - 40 worked wonders. Lift the inner tub out. It isn't heavy.

Next, prepare to remove the outer tub, which is sealed to the transmission housing with a rubber boot and a band clamp and secured to the top of the cabinet with four brackets and machine screws. These screws shouldn't be rusted, and unlike the inner tub bolts, they are readily accessible. The rubber boot probably will be as gross as the underside of the agitator, so plan to scrub both before you reinstall them.

Before you actually lift the outer tub out of the cabinet, you have to disconnect a number of hoses and free the transmission and pump from the motor. To be safe, draw diagrams showing where everything goes, or label the parts to serve as a guide during reassembly. Be sure to note how various hoses are routed, not just where they connect. It's important to put them back the way they were and use the correct clamps so you don't stress them in new ways.

Detach all hoses where they enter the tub or connect to the pump underneath. Then free the pump and the transmission from the motor by loosening the band clamp that secures the top of the flexible support to the bottom of the pump, and then slipping the drive belt off the pulley. The pump will remain connected to the outer tub as you lift it out of the top of the cabinet. Be careful not to damage the pump when you set the tub aside.

Now that the outer tub has been removed, the transmission will finally be exposed. The transmission should be mounted to the chassis with six bolts. Remove the bolts and lift the transmission out through the top.

You will need to return the old transmission in the box the refurbished transmission came in, so don't ruin the box when you open it. Before you install the factory - reconditioned transmission, clean the various parts that will go back into your machine. If necessary, sand and paint the rusty spots on the outer tub with rust inhibiting paint. You'll especially want to clean off any fluid that may have leaked from the faulty transmission seal so it doesn't get on the new belt and cause it to slip. And be sure the rubber boot is clean and smooth so it seals well against the new transmission housing when you reinstall the band clamp. Otherwise, the tank could leak water into the motor.

After slipping the belt over the two pulleys, install the refurbished transmission in the same orientation as the old one so the six bolt holes line up with the holes in the chassis. The replacement transmission is shipped with a couple of bolts already installed. They have tooth - washer tops and should not be used to secure the unit to the chassis. By reading the fine print on the box the reconditioned transmission came in, I learned that the rough heads can abrade the plastic as the machine vibrates during use and cause a leak. Instead, use the bolts with the smooth rectangular washers that were on the transmission you removed. Save the tooth washer bolts to hold the old transmission case together during the shipping.

Wash your hands before you install the new belt so it doesn't get fouled with oil or grease. Finally, replace the outer tub, hoses, boot, inner tub and agitator in the reverse order from how you first removed them.

GE provided a plastic bag to seal in any oil that might leak out when shipping the old transmission. To avoid a flood, be sure to reinstall the two bolts that came with the refurbished transmission and seal the bag well.

Important lessons
Not every washer transmission will be replaced this way. For instance, don't try to change the transmission yourself if you have a Whirlpool or a Maytag brand washer. I'm told you need a special spanner wrench to remove the tubs on those machines.

The important lesson here is that the manufacturer or parts dealer can walk you through many appliance repairs. Some, like this one, don't require specialized tools or in - depth knowledge of electronics or plumbing. The trick is to be organized and logical as you go from step to step.

It also helps to keep good notes so you can put the machine back together again once you have completed the repairs.

Sources

- GE Parts, (800) 626 - 2000, www.geappliances.com