First impressions last. With that in mind, you don't need a real estate professional to explain the benefits of improving your home's entry area.

A new front door enhances a home's security, energy efficiency and curb appeal - which can translate into cash if you plan to sell your home. In a recent study by NFO World Group, homes with upgraded entry systems were perceived to be 3.2 percent to 6.6 percent higher in value than the same homes outfitted with plain six-panel doors. For a remodeling project, that's a darn good return on your investment. The best part: Door replacement is surprisingly simple  Here are the basic ins and outs.

Choosing your door
Besides design decisions (lighting requirements, privacy needs, architectural style), you’ll need to consider other variables when choosing a new door. First, know the dimensions of your current door’s frame and whether it is right-handed (RH) or left-handed (LH). The definition and labeling of RH and LH vary among manufacturers, so bring a photo or sketch of your existing door when shopping for a new door and hardware.

Another consideration is composition. Although wood is the traditional material for exterior doors, its problems with dimensional stability have led to increasing use of steel or fiber glass. Today’s nonwood doors offer even greater insulating value and durability than older version.

We installed a Therma-Tru Classic Craft fiberglass door that looks, feels and stains like wood but is far less likely to crack, warp or dent. Its polyurethane foam core is a great insulator, and internal solid-wood stiles provide strength. Club member and remodeling contractor Mike Forstie worked with us to perform a professional-quality installation.

Opening act
When removing the old door, be prepared for surprises. You may need to do some problem-solving, as we did when we discovered there was no sill plate beneath the door. Observe the door manufacturer’s requirements for site preparation (the warranty may depend on it), and follow these general steps:

First, remove the latch hardware and interior casing. Pull out the hinge pins and remove the door. Detach the hinge plates and remove all hardware from the jambs.

Next, pry off the brickmold from the exterior, and cut the nails between the door jambs and the structural framing (photo). Pull out the jamb/sill unit. In our case, this revealed only the rim joists, so Mike installed a pressure-treated 1x6 sill plate. If your sill plate is not sound, replace it now (and shim it if it’s not level).

Measure the rough opening, which should be about 1/2 in. taller and 1/2 to 3/4 in. wider than the outside dimensions of the doorjamb. Check the angles of all corners with a framing square, and use a level (a 6-ft. or 4-ft level is best) to determine whether the sides of the opening are plumb. If major adjustments are needed, make them before you set the new door into the opening. Minor corrections can be made with shims after the door is in place.

Also measure the width of the opening to check the fit of the brick-mold along the home’s siding or façade. Plane the edges of the brick-mold if needed.

Installing your door
Now that you’ve prepared the opening, you’ll need to recruit a helper (preferably someone who lifts weights) for the installation stage of the project.

Apply caulk according to the door manufacturer’s instructions — don’t skimp, especially under the sill. Add a bead along the back of the brickmold where it will meet the sheathing. Rest the bottom of the door unit in position and center it in the opening before tilting it upward. Once the door is upright, press it as far into the opening as it needs to go.

Theoretically, if the door’s threshold rests on a level surface, the jambs will be plumb and square. Nevertheless, check both door jambs with a level from the outside while your helper adjusts the fit by inserting shims from the inside. (The door should still be clipped in its closed position.) You do not need to install shims along the head jamb, unless you’re installing doors with side lites or a patio unit.

Partially drive a few 10d galvanized casing nails into the hinge jamb near the hinge areas. Add or remove shims behind the hinges and recheck alignment. Be sure the weatherstripping margins are even all around. Remove transport clips; then open and close the door to check for smooth operation. Secure the hinge jamb by replacing one of the short screws in each hinge with a 2-1/2-in. screw. Similarly adjust and secure the latch-jamb side. From the outside, drive 10d galvanized casing nails into the brick-mold and structural framing. Once the door has been secured, drive and countersink all nails, and fill the holes with exterior-grade putty.

From the interior, trim the shims flush with the frame by scoring with a utility knife and snapping the ends. Fill between the jambs and frame structure with a low-expanding foam insulation that is formulated for use around windows and door jambs. Caution: Do not overfill the cavities.

Closing comments
Once you’ve installed the door, replace the interior casing and install a handle and lock. We needed to bore a second hole for the new deadbolt. To ensure a clean cut, we drilled a 1/8-in. pilot hole through the stile, in the center of the area marked for a 2-1/8-in. hole. Then we used a hole saw with a center guide bit to cut from both sides, meeting in the center of the solid-wood stile.

To prevent moisture damage, install drip-edge flashing along the top of the exterior frame as advised by the door manufacturer. Apply caulk along the brickmold where it meets the siding. Paint or stain the door and casing as needed. Finally, adjust the threshold to meet the door’s bottom gasket or sweep according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Although this door provides five times the insulation value of a traditional wood door, we have the option to install a storm/screen door for airflow and sunlight on mild days. If you wish to do so, check the terms of your door’s warranty first. Because of thermal-expansion issues, a storm door may void certain manufacturers’ warranties.


 
SOURCES
Kwikset Corp. (door lock) 800-327-5625 Progress Lighting (outdoor lights)
(864) 599-6000
Therma-Tru Doors
800-843-7628
INSULATING FOAM SEALANTS Convenience Products
800-325-6180
Dap Inc.
888-327-8477
The Dow Chemical Co.
888-668-3801