Few creature comforts are as important as a properly functioning toilet. In fact, the average person spends three years of his or her life using the toilet, according to bath fixture manufacturer American Standard. No wonder it’s so irritating when these indispensable fixtures malfunction.
If a toilet in your home continually causes frustration, you’re not alone — one in three people experiences problems with toilets, and one in 10 says that the toilet’s flapper and chain demand frequent tinkering to work properly. But most of these problems can be easily fixed with readily available replacement parts.
Fixing problems
Repairing toilet maladies is usually very simple. Rather than ignore a small problem that could snowball, it’s best to tackle repairs immediately. Most faulty flushers fall into three categories:
Running toilets — This problem usually stems from the ballcock mechanism or the flush valve. The ballcock regulates water flow to the tank, and the flush valve opens to release water into the bowl each time you flush and closes again to let the tank refill. A faulty ballcock will let water continually flow into the tank until it overfills and spills down the overflow tube. A faulty flush valve, on the other hand, lets water continuously run into the bowl.
To diagnose the problem, remove the tank lid. If the water level in the tank is below the top of the overflow pipe, the flush valve is the culprit. If the water is continuously filling the tank and spilling into the overflow tube, the ballcock assembly is to blame.
Replacing a ballcock is usually an easy process that involves shutting off the water supply, disconnecting the line and unscrewing the mounting nut that holds the ballcock assembly in place within the tank. Complete replacement kits are available from Fluidmaster and other manufacturers, and they contain everything you’ll need to make repairs. Don’t worry if the new ballcock looks different from the old assembly; most modern kits use what’s referred to as a float-cup ball-cock. It operates differently from the older ball-float assemblies, but the two types are interchangeable.
Replacing a flush valve can be a bit trickier, depending on the repair kit that works with your toilet. If possible, purchase a repair kit that seats the new flush valve and its flapper directly over the existing valve seat. If this type of kit is not available, you’ll have to remove the tank from the toilet to gain access to the spud nut that holds the flush valve in place.
Weak flushes — If your toilet lacks the power to clear the bowl, you need to make some adjustments to either the flapper or the float. If the handle lever fails to completely lift the flapper or prevents it from closing fully, make adjustments to the chain that connects the flapper to the trip lever. Shorten the chain so that no more than 1/2 in. of play remains, and make sure that the chain links don’t interfere with the proper seating of the flapper.
To adjust the float so more water can enter the tank (increasing the force of the flush), you can slightly bend up the arm that holds the ball float, or in the case of a cup-float mechanism, slide the float slightly up the rod (see “Adjusting Float Mechanisms,” ). Make sure that you don’t overadjust and allow too much water to enter the bowl and spill down the overflow tube.
Leaks — Water collecting behind the toilet seat or on the floor usually indicates a toilet-related leak. To determine which toilet component is the culprit, dry the affected areas and repeatedly flush to see where the water is coming from — a few drops of food coloring added to the tank will help in the process. If dyed water runs down the outside of the tank, it’s usually due to a faulty ball-cock that’s directing water at the inside of the tank lid. If the dyed water is seeping through cracks in the porcelain, you’ll need to replace the tank itself. If you find the dyed water on the floor and not in the bowl, that indicates a leak in one of the washers or seals below the tank rather than a problem with the bowl. If the dyed water is present in both the bowl and on the floor, it’s usually a sign that the wax ring has failed and needs to be replaced.
Increasing efficiency
Even if your toilet isn’t malfunctioning, you can make a couple of easy changes to increase its efficiency and water conservation. To save water, replace the existing flush-valve flapper with a variable-buoyancy flapper or another water-saving style (photo, left) that lets you adjust how much water flows from the tank during each flush. The resulting water savings can be dramatic: For example, a flapper set at 1.4 gallons compared with the mandated 1.6 gallons would save more than 2,000 gallons of water a year for a family of four.
If the water that enters the toilet tank is significantly colder than the outside air, the tank is likely to sweat and drip onto the floor. To increase the thermal efficiency of the tank and prevent condensation, line the tank with 1/2-in. rigid foam, or use a ready-to-install tank liner kit.
Enhancing appeal
Even though the toilet’s most important function is utilitarian, it can also add decorative flair. For example, if the towel bars and other fixtures in your bathroom all match, why not carry the theme through with the toilet handle? A variety of handles are available that match many bathroom hardware styles. They quickly bolt into place and feature heavy-duty brass trip levers.
Finally, if your toilet seat is old and cracked, you can easily replace it with a new one. Most toilet manufacturers offer replacements that bolt into place and provide a stylish complement to the room’s decorating scheme. Now that you realize how much time you’re going to spend there, you might as well invest in a few simple changes that make the room comfortable and appealing.
STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS
REPLACING A BALLOCK
Step 1: After shutting off the water supply, flush the toilet to remove all of the water from the tank. Disconnect the water supply line, remove the nut that holds the old ballcock assembly in place and lift it out of the tank. Feed the new assembly through the same hole, secure its mounting nut and reattach the water supply.
REPAIRING A VALVE SEAT
Step 1: Many flush-valve repair kits can be installed directly over the existing valve seat, which saves you the hassle of removing the tank.
REPLACING A FLUSH VALVE AND SEAT
Step 1: If you have to replace the valve seat, you’ll need to remove the tank. Remove the spud nut that holds the flush valve in place. Remove the old unit and feed the new flush valve through the opening.
Step 2: Attach and tighten the spud nut, install the tank gasket over the exposed threads and remount the tank to the bowl.
ADJUSTING THE FLAPPER
Step 1: Use pliers to remove extra links so that the chain is taught and doesn’t catch on any part of the flush mechanism.
ADJUSTING FLOAT MECHANISMS
Step 1: For ball-float mechanisms, simply bend the float arm up to increase the amount of water that enters the tank.
Step 2: For cup-float mechanisms, release the retaining clip and slide the float up the rod.
REPLACING A WAX RING
Step 1: Replacing the wax ring is a messy job. After removing the tank, remove the nuts that hold the bowl to the floor. Lift the toilet away and scrape the old wax from the flange with a putty knife. Mount the new wax ring around the closet flange and set the toilet back in place.