A shop can never have too many work surfaces, and one that’s near your project is especially convenient. This rolling cart is a useful amenity for any shop, as it provides a sizable sturdy work area that can be easily moved wherever you need it. Use it as a rolling tool bench, a portable assembly table, a welding cart or a rolling benchtop tool stand. Constructed from 3/32-in.-thick aluminum diamond plate and 14-gauge steel flat stock and square hollow tube, this versatile table is inexpensive (ours cost about $90) and easy to build. In fact, the only difficulty you might face is handling requests from friends who want you to build one for them.
Cutting the parts
Cut all of the hollow tube and flat stock pieces to length as indicated in the cutting list. A metal cutoff saw is the best tool for this task (photo 1, opposite), but you can use either a jigsaw outfitted with a metal-cutting blade or an angle grinder equipped with a cutoff wheel.
You may be able to find aluminum diamond plate in precut sizes at a home center. But if your store doesn’t stock the
size you need, you can buy it from a steelyard or metal distributor.
Take advantage of the distributor’s shearing service if possible. The steelyard where I purchased diamond plate charged $20 for each break, and the quality of the cuts is far superior to what I can achieve. But if you’re intent on saving money and want to cut the sheet yourself, you can use a variety of tools: a circular saw outfitted with a 40-tooth carbide blade installed backward (photo 2), a jigsaw with a metal-cutting blade or an angle grinder equipped with a metal cutoff wheel. Be sure to wear hearing protection in addition to your other safety gear when cutting sheet aluminum, as the process is extremely noisy.
Once you’ve cut the sheet to size, use a jigsaw with a metal-cutting blade to cut notches that fit around the upright support (see drawing, p. 60). Smooth the cut edges with a crosscut file rather than an angle grinder, as friction generated by the grinder’s high-speed will only form new sharp edges. Finally, drill four holes (two in each side; see drawing) to accommodate the four 10-24 x 2-in. bolts that will secure the plate to the framework.
Welding and assembly
Start assembling the base by first laying out the long base member and the two base legs. Check that the assembly is square; then weld the three sections (photo 3).
Use a drill press if possible to bore the height-adjustment holes through both of the upright posts. (If you must use a hand drill, wait to bore these holes until after you've welded the uprights in position.) I used a 1/2-in. lawn trailer hitch pin for the height-adjustment lock; you should size the holes to fit the diameter of the pin you purchase.
To weld the upright, first mark its location. While holding it in place (and remembering to check that it is plumb and square), tack-weld it to the base member. Once the upright is secure, run full welds on all four sides (photo 4,). Finally, weld the 2-in.-sq. end caps onto the ends of the base legs.
Weld the top section together in the same manner as the base. Just as before, check that it is square before making any welds; then use an angle grinder to smooth all of the welds and ease sharp edges on both the top and the base (photo 5).
Next, mark the centers of the casters’ mounting holes with a punch; then drill the holes for the 10-24 x 2-1/4-in.
bolts. Use cutting oil, and start with a small-diameter drill bit, slowly working your way up to the final diameter. If your drill has a plumb glass, you may be able to bore both the top and bottom holes in one pass (photo 6).
Otherwise, mark the hole locations on the opposite face of the tube and drill corresponding holes.
If you didn’t already bore height-adjustment holes through the uprights, do so with a hand drill in the same way you bored the casters’ mounting holes (see drawing for placement). Next, drill holes through the four corners of the top framework to correspond with the four holes you drilled earlier through the diamond plate (for the 10-24 x 2-in. mounting bolts). Then drill the two holes for the 8-24 x 2-in. bolts that secure the handle to the front of the cart.
Clean the framework with mineral spirits; then apply two coats of paint — I used Rust-Oleum Protective Enamel (Sunrise Red). Once the paint is dry, fasten the casters to the base, and insert the top-section upright into the bottom-section upright, using the hitch pin to lock the two sections together (photo 7, above). Finally, attach the handle to the front of the framework and fasten the diamond plate to the underside of the framework (photo 8). The table is ready to roll into place — or into hiding from any envious friends.
SOURCES
Bosch (T127 DF aluminum-cutting jigsaw blades), 877-267-2499
Rust-Oleum, 800-553-8444
STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS
Step 1: When cutting hollow tube, you’ll achieve the best results with a metal cutoff saw. To make miter cuts, verify the angle of the saw’s miter gauge to ensure accurate results.
Step 2: After installing a 40-tooth carbide blade backward, you can use a circular saw to cut aluminum diamond plate to size. A lumber crayon works well on metal to mark the location of the cut.
Step 3: Check that the base pieces are square; then weld the three sections together.
Step 4: After tack-welding the upright in place, run full beads along all four sides of the joint.
Step 5: Use an angle grinder to smooth all of the welds. Be aware of where the sparks fly, and don’t work near any flammable materials.
Step 6: If your drill has a plumb indicator, you can carefully drill both holes for the casters’ mounting bolts in one pass. Otherwise, mark and drill both sides individually for accuracy.
Step 7: Install the 1/2-in.-dia. hitch pin to lock the upper section of the table to the base. When you remove the pin, the three adjustment holes allow for 6 in. of height adjustment.
Step 8: Wing nuts allow for easy removal of the diamond plate if you need to clean or replace it.