In metalworking as in woodworking, a good, solid work surface is essential. After all, an uneven bench that wobbles is frustrating and dangerous. And though a large store-bought welding table would provide superb stability, not many of us have room in our already crowded shops or garages for another bench.
This welding bench not only provides rock-solid stability but also folds up easily for storage and costs only about $40 in materials. Even if you don’t have much metalworking experience, it’s simple to build. And the tools and techniques you’ll use will help you in future metalworking projects.
Cut the parts
The first step in building this bench is to cut the top framework, the bench legs and the leg support bar to length. You could use a variety of tools to do this; I opted for an abrasive cutoff saw. Similar in function to a woodworking miter saw, an abrasive cutoff saw uses a large abrasive disc instead of a toothed blade to make clean, precise cuts through metal at a wide range of angles. Though you could use an angle grinder, a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade, a reciprocating saw or even a plasma cutter (to make the cuts, these tools won’t yield results as precise.
A welding bench isn’t just a necessity in metalworking; it’s a great project for developing your welding skills. The last step in building this bench is to weld on the top.
Any metal-cutting process produces flying sparks, so before you begin cutting, position yourself and the saw so that sparks are blocked by a nonflammable shield or land in a noncombustible area. Be sure to wear safety glasses and a face shield — metal dust and hot sparks can pass beneath safety glasses, so the only way to properly protect your eyes is to wear both. Also wear hearing protection because abrasive cutoff saws are loud, and wear heavy work gloves to protect your hands from sharp edges (photo 1).
For cutting the angle iron for the top framework, set the saw’s fence at 45 degrees, and clamp the stock firmly in place. (You could build the top framework from square tubing and simply butt the corners together, eliminating the miters.) For cutting the flat stock, clamp the workpiece so that its widest face is against the saw’s fence (rather than laying the widest face down, as you would in woodworking); that way, the abrasive disc cuts through the thinnest section of metal.
As you feed the blade down into the workpiece, you won’t feel the same “feedback” transmitted through the saw as when you cut into wood. Just continue to apply even, steady downward pressure on the saw until the blade passes completely through the metal stock. Once you’ve finished the cut, do not raise the saw back up until the blade stops; otherwise you risk snagging the blade on the workpiece and damaging the saw (or injuring yourself).
After you’ve cut the angle iron, square tubing and flat stock to length, cut the expanded-metal mesh for the top to size. You could use a jigsaw or angle grinder, but I used the Craftsman Twin Cutter (photo 2) for a variety of reasons. First, because of its twin counter-rotating blades, there’s very little chance of kickback (and there are lots of places for a blade to snag when cutting through expanded mesh). Second, because of the Twin Cutter’s design, it produces far fewer sparks and is easier to control on long cuts, almost as easy as a regular circular saw. Clamp the mesh firmly to a solid work surface before you begin cutting, and wear protective gloves at all times, as the edges of the expanded mesh are sharp.
Once you’ve cut all the pieces, set them aside and clean up the metal dust you’ve created. This grayish-black powder is more than just messy; it’s highly abrasive, and under enough heat, it can combust. For these reasons, never work near open flames, and make sure that any nearby devices or tools are covered and protected from the dust’s damaging effects.
Build the top
Carefully lay out the four top framework pieces on a smooth, flat, nonflammable surface (such as concrete), and check that they are square (see photo 3). To protect the concrete from the heat you’ll generate during welding, use the square leg sections to elevate the framework off the floor.
Before you begin welding, make sure you’re wearing appropriate safety gear. Start with a long-sleeve wool or cotton shirt, long pants (denim jeans work well) and leather work boots. Never wear clothing made from synthetic materials, as a spark would melt the fabric to your skin. Protect your hands with welding gloves and your eyes with a welding hood — I use an auto-darkening helmet, as it gives me a clear view of my work and darkens only when an arc is struck.
Begin the welding process by tacking each corner together with a small spot weld to keep the parts from shifting; then weld the miters together, working from the inside corner of the joint outward (photo 4, above). Though there are different methods for welding metal, I used a wire-feed MIG arc welder because of its precision and greater control. (For more information on arc welding tools and techniques, see “Welding for Woodworkers,”)
Once you’ve welded the inside of the four miters, flip the framework right-side up and weld the outside edges of the corners. If necessary, smooth the corners with an angle grinder once the welds are cool.
Assemble the table
To prepare the table for assembly, drill 1/2in.dia. pivot holes in the legs and 3/8in.dia. pivot holes in both the legs and the top framework (photo 5). Though a drill press would be ideal for this process, you can use a hand drill.
To start the hole, first punch a center mark so the drill bit doesn’t wander. Use successively larger bits to create the holes, starting with the smallest diameter first — I used 1/16, 1/8and 3/8in. twist drill bits. Use a few drops of lubricating oil to keep the drill bits and the metal cool. As an option, you could also drill additional 1/2in.dia. pivot holes higher on the legs so that you could lower the table’s working height by changing the pivot bolts’ positions.
Once you’ve drilled all the holes, bolt the leg assemblies together; then bolt the assemblies to the top framework. Next, clamp and weld the leg brace to both of the inside legs (photo 6). Never use wooden or plastic clamps when welding, as they’re likely to be damaged by heat or sparks. Use only metal clamps such as ViseGrip locking pliers that are made specifically for metalworking.
At this point, check the pivoting action to make sure that none of the welds interfere with movement. If necessary, use an angle grinder to smooth away sharp or protruding edges.
Finally, clamp the expanded-metal mesh to the top framework, and weld every metal junction (lead photo p. 24). Don’t merely tack the mesh in place — any point you skip could later snag and cut your hand. To ensure that there’s no place to catch your hands, use an angle grinder to ease sharp edges once the welds are cool.