Number One Fan

Originally designed to circulate room air, ceiling fans have evolved into true multi-taskers. Besides adding decorative flair, modern models provide light and even heating capability and remote-control operation. And although their versatility has grown, installation is relatively easy. In addition to boasting technological innovations, today’s fans come in a much wider variety of styles than the traditional models of 20 years ago, which typically featured dark-brown blades, shiny brass hardware and etched-glass light fixtures. Now you can find fans that suit just about any decor, including Craftsman, art deco and contemporary designsas well as novelty models with sports and kids’ themes.

Aesthetic choices are just one factor in selecting the right fan. You’ll also need to consider the room’s size, ceiling height and lighting needs. In addition, think about whether you want to invest in additional features such as heating capability and remote-control operation.
 
A remote control operates all of the functions of this Reiker Room Conditioner fan. The remote also
functions as a thermostat, controlling the heat as needed.

Basic considerations
Determining the fan’s size depends on the size of the room: Bigger rooms are best served by larger-diameter models. The following guidelines show common blade diameters and the corresponding
room size:

Although light-fixture accessories are typically easy to connect, some are more decorative than functional, so if you plan to use one as a primary light source, be sure to choose a model that will offer sufficient illumination. To maximize the life of the fixture’s light bulbs, use those specifically designed to absorb the vibration of a moving fan. You can also save energy by using compact fluorescent bulbs in most fan lights. (Note: If the light is controlled by a dimmer switch, use only bulbs rated for use with that type of switch.)
Ceiling fans can be controlled by is the pull-chain. These fans are typically connected by a two-cable wire to a wall switch, which serves only to turn the power on and off — the fan speed and lighting are controlled by separate pull-chains.

Wall switches are a better option because they eliminate the hazard of dangling chains. However, installation requires more work because you must run three-wire cable from the ceiling fan to the wall switches to separate the fan and light functions.

Remote controls are the most modern — and convenient to use — operational systems. Best of all, remote-control fans are as easy to install as pull-chain models because they require only a two-wire cable for power — the remote controls all of the functions. If you are replacing a pull-chain-operated fan and would like to upgrade, I recommend choosing a remote-control model rather than a more complex-to-install double-wall-switch fan.

When it comes to price, larger fans and those with more features are typically more expensive, but higher cost can also indicate better quality. More expensive fans usually feature more durable and quieter motors, better mounting hardware, higher-grade materials and finishes and more refined trim pieces to conceal fasteners.

For this three-season cabin, I chose a Reiker Room Conditioner fan because it had all of necessary basics (52-in.-dia. blades, contemporary style, two compact fluorescent bulbs and a remote control) and one feature that set it apart from any other manufacturer’s fan: a heater. The heater is controlled by a thermostat that is built into the remote control and is rated to maintain the temperature in a 20 x 20-ft. room with 8-ft. ceilings. It is not intended to be the primary heat source for a typical house, but it provides more than enough heat to take the edge off of a cold fall morning.

Typical Installation
Whether you’re replacing an existing fan or performing a new installation, the basic steps remain the same (although a new installation requires that you add an electrical box and run the necessary wiring). In any case, the first step is to shut off the power that feeds the fixture at the circuit panel or fuse box.

Next, you’ll need to remove the old fixture. I removed the old fan’s light fixture and blades and then the screws that connected the canopy to the ceiling mount. I carefully lowered the canopy and unscrewed the wire nuts to disconnect the wires. Finally, I removed the mounting plate attached to the electrical box.

Next, you must assess the existing electrical box and wires. Ceiling fans can be heavy, and their spinning produces a small amount of vibration.

Unless you are replacing a fan that was mounted to an appropriate electrical box, you will need to replace the existing box. Use a heavy-gauge 4-in. metal box or one specifically approved for use with a ceiling fan, and secure the box directly to the framing or an adjustable hanger bracket designed for supporting ceiling fans.

Replacing a box can be tricky. (I was fortunate because the fan that I removed was supported by an appropriate hanger bracket.) If you must replace the box, it is easiest to work from above the ceiling when possible. Pry out or cut the nails to remove the old box, and attach blocking so that the new box will be flush with the finished ceiling.

If you don’t have access above the ceiling, the next-best option might be an adjustable metal bracket rated for ceiling fan support. Remove the old box and fit the support through the opening in the ceiling. Line up the bar perpendicular to the joists and tighten it until the end plates securely press against the joists.

Another option is to cut a new hole for the box directly below the closest joist and then secure a 1/2-in.-thick x 4-in.-dia. “pancake” box to the bottom of the joist. Then patch the hole left by the old box.

If the fan will be operated by a double wall switch, you must run three-wire cable to the switch location and connect each of the hot leads to a different switch.

Once the box and wires are in place, installing the fan only takes about an hour. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for installation (see photos).

Standard operation
After you’ve installed the fixture, turn the power on and check that the fan operates smoothly. If it wobbles excessively, install a blade-balancing kit (a weighted clip and self-adhesive weighted tabs that are included with most ceiling fans). Clip the weight to each blade (one at a time) and spin the fan to check for improvement; then attach the self-adhesive weights to the out-of-balance blade. If the weights don’t correct the wobbling, the mounting ball may not be properly seated in the mounting bracket (photo 3).

Most ceiling fans rotate in two directions. During warm weather the fan should spin counterclockwise to create a cooling downward breeze. During cool weather the fan should turn clockwise at low speed to create an updraft that circulates warm air from the ceiling down into the living space. Aside from this seasonal change in rotation, your fan should require little maintenance other than occasional cleaning.

 
INSTALLING A CEILING FAN
 
Step 1: Assemble as much of the fan as possible before climbing the ladder. Following manufacturer’s instructions, make sure all of the parts are assembled in the proper orientation and order. Thread the wires through the down-rod and fasten it to the motor housing.

Step 2: Once the old fan has been removed, make the necessary upgrades to the electrical box and wiring. Next, fasten the new fan’s mounting bracket to the electrical box with lock nuts and bolts or machine screws.
 
Step 3: Depending on the type of fan you are installing, hang the mounting ball in the mounting bracket, or hang the canopy on the mounting bracket (inset), being careful to seat the slot on the ball with the tab on the bracket or canopy. Connect the corresponding wires with wire nuts, and wrap each connection with electrical tape.
 
Step 4: Secure the canopy to the mounting bracket, and fit any trim rings over the canopy and  motor. Install the fan blades.
 
Step 5: Connect the light fixture (if applicable) to the motor. Finally, install the light bulbs and globe or shades.