The first cordless circular saw I remember was a little one Makita introduced in the late 1980s. With only 9.6 volts of power and a blade slightly larger than 3 in., it was a trim saw in every sense of the word. Although it couldn’t cut a 2x4 in one pass, it paved the way for a new kind of tool.

Today, traditional circular saws face competition from cordless models that boast refined design, improved blades and high-tech, high-voltage batteries (ranging from 12 to 36 volts). In fact, you’ll see as many cordless saws as corded models on construction sites.

To see just how well cordless circular saws perform, we tested seven midrange models that a typical DIYer might choose. Except for the 20-volt Craftsman, all of the tools we tested were 18-volt saws with at least a 6-1/2-in. blade. Only saws that can be purchased individually were included; other brands and models are available only in larger combo kits.

The saws ranged in weight from just under 7-1/2 pounds to almost 9-1/2 pounds. However, weight may not be much of an issue unless you’re carrying the saw around all day. Unlike cordless drills, which are often used in vertical and overhead applications, circular saws are almost always operated horizontally, so the workpiece supports the tool.

Most of the nitty-gritty specs were similar. All of the saws could cut a 2x4 at 90 and 45 degrees (see the chart on p. 28, for exact cutting depths). All but the Panasonic have 5/8-in. arbors, all have arbor locks, and all have a maximum 50-degree bevel. Unfortunately, none of the saws are equipped for dust collection.

The machines that came as kits included a case or bag, one or two batteries, a charger, a rip fence and a wrench. The Craftsman and Ridgid saws aren’t sold as kits, so the battery and charger must be purchased separately, and bags or cases aren’t available for these models.

Except for the Ridgid, all of the saws have left-mounted blades. Most corded saws have blades on the right, and early cordless versions followed this trend. However, newer saws are opting for left-mount blades that many people prefer for blade visibility. Before you buy, be sure to handle a saw at the store to see which one works best for you.

Test considerations
I ran each machine through its paces on 3/4-in. plywood and pine 2x4s because those are the most common materials you’d cut with any regularity. I also cut some 1x4 poplar and oak and tried some long rip cuts in a pressure-treated 4x4 post. (None of these saws can cut through a 4x4, but I wanted to see whether they bogged down in the dense wood.)

Circular saws make a shrill, whiny sound when the blade hits the wood, and all of these machines were loud. Always wear hearing protection when using a circular saw.

Blade changing was straightforward on all of the saws, and the arbor lock was a huge asset. All of the saws came with the appropriate wrench for blade changes, but those with the wrench mounted on the tool were most convenient.

Because most people will use the blades supplied by the manufacturer, I used them for the tests. Of course, using different blades will affect the performance of any saw. 

One spec I didn’t test is one manufacturers like to promote: how many 2x4s can be cut on a single charge. Although claiming that a saw can cut 150 2x4s on a single charge sounds impressive, it’s really meaningless. The number of cuts a saw can make depends on many factors, including wood density and moisture content, blade type and sharpness, battery wear, how fast you cut, etc.

The test cuts I performed were the equivalent of the work necessary for an extensive framing or deck-building project. I found that these saws and their batteries have progressed significantly compared with original cordless models. Almost all of them have battery power to spare. If your saw kit has two batteries (or if you buy a second battery) it’s unlikely that you’ll run one down before the other is recharged. No cordless saw can completely replace a corded model, but some of these come close.

Bosch 1664
One of only two Ni-Cad saws in our test, the Bosch 1664 has a handy feature none of the others offers: a hanging hook. I’ve used circular saws for years and find these hooks extremely useful. They let the tool hang neatly on any horizontal board, such as a joist, and you can even hang your saw on your tool belt if you don’t mind the weight.

This was the heaviest saw in the group at just an ounce under 9-1/2 pounds. Although the too-thick handle made working with it a bit tiresome after a while, the balance is good, so the weight may not bother you if you don’t lug it around all day.

The tool is nicely appointed, and adjustment levers and knobs are large and easy to use, as is the arbor lock. But the performance was disappointing. The saw satisfactorily handled most trim chores for cutting 2x4s to length, but it seemed underpowered and bogged down during ripping tasks or when it was pushed too hard, and it stalled several times when cutting treated lumber.

Bosch tools are sturdy and reliable, and this saw is a good example. Depending on your intended use, this relatively inexpensive saw might be a good light- or mid-duty tool. It comes in a kit that includes a 6-1/2-in. 18-tooth blade, a hex wrench, a fence, one battery, a charger and a storage bag, and it sells for about $230.

Craftsman Pro
Although the Craftsman Professional is a 20-volt saw, it was close enough to include among the 18-volt models. Like its battery, the saw was larger in other ways, too. It uses a 7-1/4-in. blade, and at 6-1/2 x 12 in., the baseplate is the largest (and highly legible measurements on the front and side make it the nicest). Weighing 9 pounds 5 ounces, this was the second-heaviest tool in the group.

The saw boasts lots of nice extras the others don’t offer. A toggle switch on top lets you choose a bright LED or laser sightline (or neither). The LiON battery has a “fuel gauge” that indicates remaining power. The lower blade guard is magnesium, not plastic. An onboard hex wrench, excellent levers and knobs and an easy-to-access arbor lock round out the special features.

However, the handle was a bit uncomfortable, and the tool proved to be somewhat of an underachiever. In spite of the extra voltage, it bogged down more than any of the other test models. It was the only saw that balked when pressed hard during 2x4 cutoffs, and it stalled frequently during plywood ripping.

In treated lumber, the tool shut down several times, requiring a manual reset using a button on the battery. Because a 7-1/4-in. blade spins more of its cutting edge into the cut than a 6-1/2-in. blade, it needs more torque to accomplish the same amount of work. Unfortunately, the extra voltage doesn’t help much, and the 7-1/4-in. blade doesn’t increase capacity significantly. The depth of cut at 90 degrees is
2-3/8 in., just fractionally better than that of the other saws, and the depth of cut at 45 degrees is about the same.

If your cutting needs aren’t demanding, this tool’s low price (the second-lowest of the test group) and excellent extras might make it a good fit for you, but I can’t recommend it for much more than light-duty chores.

The Craftsman Pro doesn’t come in kit form, but the saw (with a wrench, fence and 7-1/4-in. 24-tooth blade), one battery and a charger are available separately at a combined price of about $220.

DeWalt DC390K
DeWalt makes good tools, and the DC390K is no exception. DeWalt tools are usually expensive, but this is one exception — in fact, it’s the lowest-priced tool of the group. Unlike most of the others, it has been around for a while, which may account for the lower price. It has proven its worth over the years, and although some newer challengers offer more features, this machine is still a solid performer.

The saw has excellent balance and feels good in your hand. The press-down safety is easy to reach and use, and visibility is very good. All knobs and adjustments are easy to use, and the saw includes an onboard hex wrench.

The machine demonstrated surprising power and stamina; it bogged down only slightly when pushed hard while ripping 2x4s and plywood. It also did well in the treated lumber, stalling only a few times under extra load. The 2.4-Ah NiCad battery didn’t last as long as some of the 3.0-Ah packs, but DeWalt XRP batteries are known for their staying power, and this one provided plenty of working time. Still, a second battery would be a good investment.

The tool, which includes a 6-1/2-in. 16-tooth blade, a hex wrench, a fence, a battery, a charger and a case, may be short on frills, but it’s a steal at about $215. Its reliable performance and low price earn it best-value honors.

Hitachi C18DL
Along with the Makita, the Hitachi tied for the lowest weight in our test. It has a slightly smaller baseplate (4-3/4 x 10 in.) and is well balanced and very easy to control, although the rather flat handle felt odd in my grip. Still, it never became uncomfortable to use for long periods.

Manufacturers have learned that users like easy-to-operate controls, as newer machines such as this one demonstrate. Although I prefer a lever to adjust blade depth, I liked the convenient (right on the back) location of the twist-style depth control. Oddly, however, Hitachi didn’t include any depth indicator. And although the included T-handle wrench is easier to use than a small hex wrench, it can be stored only in the case.

This saw’s performance was surprising, and it did a good job on all cutoff tasks. I also like the LEDs for illuminating the cut line. When ripping 2x4s and plywood, it did bog down if I pushed it a bit harder. In treated lumber it bogged down more frequently and stalled a couple of times, requiring a reset.

This is a good all-around machine for medium-duty work, and as long as you don’t force it, it handles treated lumber well. Considering those attributes, if you prefer a lighter tool with a speedy 45-minute charger, this may be the one.

The Hitachi kit includes a 6-1/2-in. 24-tooth blade, a T-wrench, a fence, two batteries, a charger and a hard case, and it sells for about $350.

Makita BSS610
As you can see in the chart, the Makita shares several specs with the Hitachi: charging time, an LED, two LiON 3.0-Ah batteries, cutting depths and weight. This one excels in a few areas, though.

First, the speed — 3,700 rpm — is the highest in the test group. In addition, the adjustments were a bit better, with an onboard hex wrench and an incredibly simple but extremely effective blade-depth guide on the lower guard. Finally, this was one of only two saws in the test group with a positive stop at 45 degrees. I’m surprised the others don’t offer this basic amenity.

The Makita performed extremely well. Light, well-balanced and comfortable in the hand, it quickly tackled one cutoff chore after another. It bogged down under high load when ripping plywood and 2x4 material, but not severely. When ripping the treated post it also bogged a bit, but it stalled only when forced through the wood.

Priced at about $390, this was the most expensive saw in our test. It comes with a 6-1/2-in. 24-tooth blade, a hex wrench, a fence, two batteries, a charger and a case. Although the price is high, the quality won’t disappoint.

Panasonic EY3551GQ
Like the Craftsman unit, the Panasonic EY3551GQ has a few odd traits, some welcome and some not. On the plus side, it comes with a 48-tooth blade that produced the finest, smoothest cuts in the test group. It also had the most accessible and easiest-to-use arbor lock.

On the other hand, this was the only saw that didn’t use a blade with the standard 5/8-in. arbor; the 20mm (25/32-in.) blade will limit your shopping options. Although acceptably balanced, the saw has one of those flat handles that can put a lot of pressure on your fingers if you carry it around a lot. The included charger had the longest recharge cycle in the group (65 minutes), and it was the only saw that didn’t include a rip fence as standard equipment.

The performance was also a bit disappointing. It bogged down somewhat during cutoffs and a lot when ripping a 2x4 and plywood, and it often stalled when ripping treated lumber. The machine is a bit underpowered, and the 48-tooth blade compounds the problem. The saw might do better using a blade with fewer teeth.

All other aspects of the saw were fine: Blade-changing, bevel- and depth- adjustment and arbor-locking were all straightforward and easy. If you use the saw slowly to avoid bogging down, it produces the best cuts in the test group.

The tool comes with a 6-1/2-in. 48-tooth blade, one battery, a hex wrench, a charger and a carrying case large enough for a weekend trip. It sells for about $339.

Ridgid R885
I’ll say upfront that I like the traditional workpiece support that the Ridgid R885’s right-mounted blade offers. That, combined with great balance and a solid, comfortable feel, makes it an easy saw to use.

The tool did well in the cutting tests; it powered though all cutoff tasks just fine. Like the Makita and DeWalt, it bogged down a bit when ripping 2x4 material and plywood, but only when I really pushed it. It required a reset when ripping the treated post only when I forced it through the material harder than I would in normal use.

The machine offers a lot of extras. Besides the Makita, it was the only other saw with a positive stop at 45 degrees for adjusting bevels. It also features a magnesium lower blade guard, another rare amenity among our test models.

Two outstanding extras make this a saw that looks to the future. First, should you ever want to upgrade to higher power, it’s ready to accept one of Ridgid’s 24-volt LiON batteries; just take out the 18-volt pack and pop in the bigger one. (The beefier pack bumps the no-load speed up to 3,900 rpm.) The saw also carries a lifetime service agreement, something no other saw in our test offers. The benefit covers free service and parts for just about everything on the saw, including worn-out batteries.

The only thing that detracts from this saw is that it lacks an electric brake; it takes just over 1-1/2 seconds to spin down after you release the trigger. I hope Ridgid will address this concern in future models.

Like the Craftsman, the tool doesn’t come in kit form, but the saw (with fence), one battery and a charger are available separately at a combined price of about $280.

If this saw had been a left-blade tool and more expensive, I might have leaned toward the Makita as my favorite. But it’s priced more than a $100 lower than the Makita, and with its solid performance, right-mount blade, ability to upgrade to 24-volt power and lifetime service agreement, it’s not only a good value but also the best tool overall.

A.J. Hamler writes and generates sawdust from his shop in Williamstown, West Virginia.

 

Web Extra More of a Good Thing
Consider a combo kit with other tools
By A.J. Hamler

Even though other 18-volt saws fit our test category, we limited our review to those you could buy individually. However, if you’re in the market for additional cordless equipment, it’s wise to consider a combo kit that includes other tools.
      
Most combo kits feature a circular saw, drill and flashlight. Others may include a reciprocating saw, an impact driver, a hammer drill and/or a jigsaw. DeWalt’s DC9PAKIA 18-volt combo kit has a whopping nine tools, including an angle grinder, a cut-out tool, three saws and three kinds of drills.

In a combo kit, the individual tools cost less than if you buy them separately, and most include multiple batteries. Some circular saws — such as the Metabo shown here (photo 1)— are available only as part of a larger kit.


Web Extra Battery Tech
The lure of LiON batteries
By A.J. Hamler

Some of the saws came with traditional NiCad or NiMH batteries, but four use LiON cells. They offer the same punch as their older counterparts but are much lighter. For example, the DeWalt NiCad pack weighs 2-1/4 pounds, and the Makita LiON battery is a full pound lighter. They also have a different power curve. NiCad and NiMH batteries tend to die gradually toward the end of their cycles, whereas LiON batteries maintain their power level almost until they die. That means you’ll get several full-power cuts at the end of the cycle. Furthermore, LiON batteries have an incredible shelf life. A NiCad or NiMH battery may be nearly discharged if it’s not used for a while, but a LiON battery can maintain nearly a full charge for several months. These batteries are more expensive, but well worth it.