I hope this is the right place for this post.  I was hoping to get some ideas or suggestions on joining methods for a project that I wilol hopefully be doing this coming week.

The way I have done several shelf/bookcases.
I would go with a good cabinet plywood and use dado slots for shelves, glued and sprigged with finish nail. Use a3/16" ply backer board in a rabbet slot for the back and nail through it to the shelves. If the shelves need to support a lot of weight, add a 1 1/2" facer board to front for additional support. White pine works for this.
Once it is built run the router with your favorite molding bit around all exposed edges, sand, stain, and varnish.

Not trying to tell you how, just telling you my method.

Have fun! (that is what it is all about)

Hi - about all I would add to HR's response is to consider dividing it into two or three sections. 6 ft is a pretty long span for shelving. If you can't divide it down, you may consider support cleats along the back and/or banding along the front edges.

Good ideas and suggestions so far. Yes I had planned on staggering the shelves. None will run the full span also They won't be holding alot of wieght. Mainly various crafting supplies. Thanks guys for the info so far.

Thats why I asked the questions I did was to get different insight and input on it. Sometimes looking at things from a different point of view can help shape a project too.

I would combine both HR and John S's ideas. I would also build the carcases from a good grade 3/4" plywood, and dado in the top and bottom as well as one lower shelf to add stability and use adjustable shelving for the rest. The face frame I would make after the cases are in place to make it look like one continuous cabinet system. The face frame I'd made of solid wood. I usually just glue my face frames in place and affix with as few finish nails as possible. Somewhere here I have posted a photo of a shelf hole jig I made which uses a router and guide kit to make the holes. It's simple to build and easy to use. Here's the link http://www.handymanclub.com/forums/...fnp/275689

Also a good idea. Thanks for the reply.

You may want to look at making a seperate base two or three ins tall to get level for your shelf or book case to sit on, it helps in older non square/level floors.Just easier to handle than the full size. Learned the hard way making from hardwood two 3ft units to go side by side.

Johnboy, thanks for pointing that out. I had made plans for doing a similar system for my BIL using a seperate base to set the 3 units on so I'm surprised I forgot to even mention that. Good catch.

Posted By johnboy14527 on 05-21-2012 12:59 PM
You may want to look at making a seperate base two or three ins tall to get level for your shelf or book case to sit on, it helps in older non square/level floors.Just easier to handle than the full size. Learned the hard way making from hardwood two 3ft units to go side by side.

Also a good point to think about.  I"ll keep it in mind since it seems little in this house is square.  Thanks.

I agree with the build process the H.R. mentioned. Take it from someone with a 100+ yr old house, definitely use a separate base that you can level prior to assembly. Also, if you are installing on a carpeted floor, make the base 2" shorter in depth than the shelves. The tack strip along the wall will cause the shelf to lean forward rather than sit flush with the wall. I am currently working on a closet system that is basically turning the back wall into a series of shelves. I decided to make a combination of boxes (some 12" x 12", some 12" x 24") that I can configure however I need them. By using this setup, I hope to be able to accommodate taller items in some as the 12" x 24" can be stood on end if need be. Additionally, with uniform sizing they will still be able to have flush sides. Maybe helpful, maybe not . . . but my two cents worth

Also, make sure you take into account the height of any storage containers she will be using on these shelves. Nothing worse than finishing the project and then realizing you can't find storage containers to fit the shelves that she can use. Been there done that!

Posted By Alterego71 on 05-22-2012 04:52 PM
Also, make sure you take into account the height of any storage containers she will be using on these shelves. Nothing worse than finishing the project and then realizing you can't find storage containers to fit the shelves that she can use. Been there done that!

Keith, that's the beauty of adjustable shelving, provided you have the length of course.
Hope you both will post before, during and after shots of your projects in the Members' Photos section, we love pictures as much as we do dnouts. 

Good points with the storage containersbut with adjustable shelves I think we'll be ok.

Good thinking about the carpet tacks but the floor is already down and tile..