Linda:
When your Mobile Home was under construction the Linoleum was installed the full length of the unit and the walls were then anchored over it. If you ever have to remove a partition wall you'll find that the Linoleum is "UNDER" the framing of a closet or wall. There is insulation in your exterior walls....just not much of it. Your walls are not a full 2"x4" as in today's models. Actually they are using 2"x6" for the exterior walls today. So there isn't much room for insulation behind that paneling. And YES to the mask. I recommend a Mask with replaceable cartridges. Little more cost but what's your health worth to you.

Craig; I used to do Asbestos Abatement and had to be certified. We took 10hr. a day classed for two weeks. In all the years I did this I never came across a pictorial reference to tiles with or without Asbestos. I'm not saying it's not out there.... I just don't believe they could show "ALL" the tiles that are affected with Asbestos. I could go on forever with a list of material with Asbestos manufactured in it but I'll pass on that one.
So what I'm saying is everyone should use an Asbestos testing kit if there is the slimmest chance of it there...... BE SAFE!!!!!

Barry - understood!

The link I posted I got about 22 months ago from the instructor (he works for OSHA).

I'll send you a PM later with more info.

Sorry  about the spelling mistake, funny or not it wasn't intentional.  No spell check on this computer yet and it was early in the morning, at least it felt early and my mind wasn't fully awake.

J-deer, you could have grabbed credit for that pun and none of us would have been any the wiser.

Hi guys, the leak the plumber said I didn't have was leaking from the 35 year old faucet that was still in that bathroom. Couldn't get the guy to respond to any texts so my daughter came over and we tore the sink out and put the shut off valves on ourselves. I keep telling her there really isn't too much a woman can't do when she puts her mind to it and has the backup of the Handyman Club. Leak is fixed and floor is almost in condition to finish laying my flooring. It was 108 here today so the floor and walls should be dry in a few days. Floor in the closet is already dry, just need to finish drying it in the bathroom.

I still haven't solved my shut off valve problem on the toilet. The plumber at Lowe's sent me home with another type of valve but it doesn't work on galvanized pipe. Stupid me, I didn't pay attention to what kind of piping I had when I went to the store. I did know what size shut off valve I needed. Apparently, they don't make a 3/8" female end to fit my pipe. What I have is a about 1" galvanized pipe coming up through the floor with another attachment that screws onto it and a 3/8" piece screwed into that to screw the hose onto that goes up to the toilet. I can't believe I cannot find a shut off valve that will screw onto the 3/8 piece that the hose attaches too. If I could find a cap that is 3/8 I could use it to cap it off so I can turn my water on after I remove the toilet. I haven't checked Home Depot yet, but Lowe's has nothing that will fit in their shut off valves.

It looks to me that 3/8 is pretty standard size for these shut off valves by what I see at Lowe's so I don't understand why it doesn't fit. I know it's 3/8 cause I can take the nut off the shut off valve and it screws onto the piece I need to fit. Only problem, the nut has a hole in it so the copper tubing will slide inside it. I need the same size nut but one that is solid to cap off the water pipe. Once I get the new toilet then there won't be a problem. I won't necessarily need to have a shut off valve even tho it does come in handy. I need to remove the toilet to finish the flooring in the bathroom and I definitely want a new hi rise for this bathroom too.

WHAT DOES 3/8" FIP mean???? The shut off valve I bought for the toilet said: 3/8" OD and 3/8" FIP. The 3/8" OD fit the hose to the toilet, but the 3/8" FIP did not fit the piece the hose came off of.

What about using a fitting that threads onto your galvanized pipe and has a compression fitting on the other end? Then short length of copper pipe and install valve. Not pretty but might work.

Hi AZG

FIP means Female Iron Pipe and that is where you are going wrong.

The 3/8 fitting you have that the supply line goes into is 3/8" COMPRESSION.

There are several reasons WHY pipe sizes are as crazy as they are, and much of it has to do with government intervention and creating standards that are NOT STANDARD!
NPS (Nominal Pipe Size) is supposed to be the OD of the pipe, but the standard is not followed due to manufacturing errors, existing supply of fittings, etc.
For example: A 1" NPS pipe ACTUALLY measures 1.315 OD, NOT 1", so the NPS is totally USELESS.....

Water supply copper tubing, 1/2 inch copper pipe is really almost 5/8" OD, so all the fittings sold as 1/2" for use on copper pipe is really 5/8 ID fittings.
Water supply iron pipe, 1/2 inch iron pipe is really almost 7/8" OD, so all the fittings sold as 1/2" for use on iron pipe is really 7/8 ID fittings.

Besides Sweat Fittings, you have Threaded for Iron Pipe, Threaded for Compression, Threaded for Flare, Tapered and Straight.

In summary: The only thing Standard about Plumbing Components is what is Learned about what fits what and calling it TRADE SIZE for the Intended Purpose!

I recently picked up a flexible braided hose, 6' long, that I thought was 3/8" compression like all the rest of the feed ends on the supply lines for everything else.
Got home and found it was 1/4 FIP fittings on each end. Yet the package said, Ice Maker, not that I was using it for. Both the water supply valve and Refrigerator Solenoid uses 3/8" compression, so why the long braided hose for same has 1/4" FIP is beyond me. But I needed that hose for a purpose and spent a fortune on fittings in order to get it to match up with 3/8" compressions connections.

I think mobile home manufacturers have their own sizes of everything! Finally found a sink drain to fit the kitchen sink used in a mobile home at an RV dealer, at about 10 times the cost of standard sized units.

Good Luck!

TTUL
Gary

If you live alone...and it appears that you do...shut off the water to the home, flush the toilet and drain the tank.  Disconnect the valve from the supply pipe exiting the wall and the hose to the tank.

Next time you head over to the hardware store, take that valve with you as a comparison/reference.

As far as not replacing the shut-off valve?  I think that's a bad idea.  For one, it's far easier to close that valve than to run outside and shut off the main valve and then go without water until you can get the toilet repaired should something fail.

Great explanation, Gary.

I learned years ago - always take the "old" parts when buying replacements. There may be newer better options available, but things will work when you put them back together.

Also learned the value of specialty stores. The big-box stores are handy, but the professonals use the specialty stores for a reason. I needed a very short braded hose and could not find it at Sears, HD, or Lowe's - walked in to a plumbung supply store jsut before closing, snd the woman at the front desk, took one look and said, "Oh, thats a Price Phister hose - Just a minute and I'll get you a replacement".

Gary,

I am going to disagree with one part of your explanation:

QUOTE:  " NPS (Nominal Pipe Size) is supposed to be the OD of the pipe, but the standard is not followed due to manufacturing errors, existing supply of fittings, etc.  "

You are correct that NPS stands for Nominal Pipe Size but it relates to the INSIDE diameter not the OD.  It previously was call "Iron Pipe Size" and the inside diameter, at least for Schedule 40, is always larger than the 'nominal' size.  Iron Pipe Sizes (and NPS, of course) are  large enough so the inside diameter is as large as the nominal size designation, regardless of whether it is schedule 40 or 80. (Schedule 160 is actually smaller than 1" inside.)  The wall gets thicker but the outside diameter always remains the same.  Thus, 1.315" OD for a nominal 1" pipe. 

EEEEEEEEEkkk!!!

Okay, everything you all are saying makes sense...but short of replacing all my plumbing...how do I get this stupid thing shut off without "running outside and turning the water off to the whole house" while I remove the toilet and replace the floor? And, keep in mind, I'm not replacing the toilet at this moment. The old toilet is going in the trash!! I can't afford to do the toilet until maybe next month. But to be honest with you, I really have other things I need to fix first that will take all my extra spending money.

I even went into the PVC pipe caps to see if I could find a 3/8" there but the smallest is 1/2". I think it's time to go to a plumbing supply store as suggested!!! I just cannot believe that there is not something that will fit this 3/8 piece that the supply line was attached to. This stupid thing is driving me crazy. I got the leak fixed, shut offs on the sink pipes and the sink is history but can't find what I need for the toilet.

The plumber at Lowe's said to take a picture of the toilet pipe to bring in...done that, will take it tomorrow. Hope he can find something. He also said..and so have you guys, to take it apart and take it with me. This is a galvanized steel pipe and with my luck, if I try to remove that fitting, I'll break the D--- thing and have to re-plumb my whole house. Cannot afford that!! The piece screws on, but it has been there for about 35 years. We had a hard time getting the sink apart due to corrosion, but on that we had copper tubing and just cut it to take the sink out. Can't do that with the toilet. I have a shut off valve on the toilet in the master bath and had no problems putting it on. But of course that one looks to be about 1"

At least I can get the closet flooring down and get the room painted so I can move everything back into this room and then can start on the kitchen floors.. Will just have to finish the floor in the bathroom when I can magically solve this toilet problem.

Linda, Craig has the best solution to your dilemma. Go outside and shut off the main water supply. Open the outside water faucet and then the kitchen sink faucet to drain the water lines. Next remove this troublesome valve and head out to a supply store with old parts in hand. Purchase correct equipment and return home. Install the shut-off valves and turn it to the "OFF" position. Close the outside valve leaving the kitchen sink "ON". Now turn the Main water supply on slowly until the water runs in the kitchen sink smoothly with out air and gurgling. Once you have purged the water line of air open the Main valve completely then ck. for leaks starting at the shut off valve you just replaced. With this shut off valve you will be able to shut off water to the toilet and remove it at your best opportunity.
This has become harder then it should have been. I suggest you take any old parts that need replacing with you to the store the next time you do ANY repair if it's possible
Good Luck and stay COOL. It's 67° here with a high of low 70° today.

Sorry I didn't think of this sooner. It is possible to buy a new supply line for a toilet with the shut off valve built into it.  It would screw onto your 3/8" galvanized pipe.  With the built in shutoff valve you would have the problem fixed.  Can't remember where I saw them, Home Depot maybe. It was kinda pricey compared to buying valve and hose seperatlely but it might be an answer for you.

One other thing to remember is that when you take the toilet out is to cover the pipe so nothing falls into it. If you are not replacing the toilet you will have to seal the drain pipe until you do replace it. The reason for sealing the drain pipe is to prevent sewer gases from escaping into your house.

A couple of other things to remember is that putting laminate flooring under the toilet is going to mean that there is a larger gap between the toilet flange ands the toilet. Might need to use 2 wax rings to seal it when you put the toilet in. Before installing your laminate flooring go and measure the toilet you want to install. Most salespeople will be helpfulo if you explain the reason for needing the measurements. I learned the hard way that not all toilets need the same amount of room from wall to toilet flange. If you have to move the flange, you want to do that and repair the floor before putting your laminate down. Even if the flange will work where it is, check it's condition while you have the toilet off. It might need replacing, hopefully not, but easier to do (if you must) before installing laminate flooring.

Hi Bob

It didn't sound right to me either! I got the info from the NIBCO web site.

They were explaining that in order to reduce the number of fittings for the various size pipes, rather than change the OD, they made the ID thicker or thinner to get the various pipe grade schedules.

Seemed like a good cost saving idea to them at the time, hi hi.....

Also, the NPS could refer to OD or ID, depending upon the diameter of the tube in question.

Now, run up to the hardware and buy a piece of NPS 1/2 inch hard copper and a piece of NPS 1/2 inch soft copper and see if the same fitting fits both!
Ut Oh, it don't!

Although the Industry CHARTS show 1/2 inch hard and soft as having a 5/8" OD. Stores SELL 1/2" hard as NPS 1/2" and 1/2" soft AS NPS 5/8", which makes buying pipe and fittings very confusing to the buyer.

Although it appears things are standard. As I had commented earlier, there is NOTHING STANDARD when it comes to plumbing!
The way I see it, each manufacturer and each store, chooses what they want to call the various sizes, independent of the ASTM B88 standards.

Now where did I put my swedge? I'll make that sucker fit, hi hi................

Not that it has to do with plumbing, but it still has to do with tubing sizes.
For a short time, I worked with a crafting company that used tons of various size brass tubing.
We HAD to keep an inventory from various different manufacturers of the same sizes, because they weren't the same sizes.
Brand A's pipe could not be nested (telescoped), but Brand B's pipe would fit 4 of Brand A's perfectly. But it took Brand C's pipe to fit some of brand A's and B's.
So, as you telescoped the pieces, you may have A, B, A, C, B, C, B, A's products to get a proper fit.

We find this in aluminum tubing also, when trying to build larger antenna's.

TTUL
Gary

Hi Guys:

Mission complete!! $1.57 Compression Cap is all it took!!! I just knew there had to be something that would fit that thing.

I went to Lowe's to get paint today and to return the shut off valve that the store plumber sent home with me. Went with a picture of the pipes and within 2 min. had a 3/8" Compression Cap to put on the pipe. I've been the last 2 hours trying to get the toilet out so I could secure the cap properly. That toilet was so corroded I had to bust it with the hammer to get it apart. The cap was leaking quite a bit but only because the toilet was in the way and I couldn't reach down into the tiny area to put thread tape on it the first time around. After I got the toilet all removed I put thread tape on the cap, turned the water back on, and WhaaaaLaa...NO LEAKS!!!

It was mentioned that I might have to change my flange out or use a double wax ring. Don't think I'll need to do that. The old toilet was sitting on carpet that is about the same thickness as the flooring so I should be fine.

I'll tell ya..it was a B---- getting that toilet out of there. That bathroom is only 30" wide and it was so hot in there I could hardly stand it. The rotten carpet was nailed to the floor so I had to pull a bunch of nails up and clean the floor. I put a plastic bag over the sewer hole and held it down with a large rubber band. Surprisingly enough the wax ring didn't look to bad for being so old. It cleaned out of the flange real nice and the flange is nice and secure too. Much easier than the master bath ring did, but that toilet was falling through the floor and was a real mess. Had to put a new flange and floor in that bath. But I completely remodeled that room. Took out the tub and put in a shower stall and everything new...sink, toilet, medicine cabinet, mirror, walls, floor, everything. The plumber couldn't believe my tile job. My daughter had about a dozen 12" tiles left over from her kitchen and a bunch of 2" sq that were used for trim so she gave the leftovers to me. I didn't have a tile saw and couldn't afford to rent one (cause I'm slow) so I busted the 12" sq tiles up and laid them in a mosaic with some of the 2" tiles strategically placed with them and used the 2" tiles for the backsplash and the front edge. Turned out great. Was very time consuming and extremely hard to cut with a pair of nippers but didn't cost me a dime except for the nippers and the grout.

Oldman: You're driving me nuts with that wonderful cool weather!! Were having a cold spell lasting through the weekend. Was only about 95 today with a slight breeze. That is why I stay up all night and sleep during the Hot days. Can't get any work done in that kind of heat.

Should be able to start painting tomorrow and then finish laying the floor in the closet. I can see the light at the end of the tunnel!!!

Way to go there AZG!!!!!

As aggravating as it can be some times, in the long run, doing your own remodeling gives one a sense of self-sufficiency as well as taking great pride in a job well done!

I made a small mosaic end table once, by cutting and sanding the edges of the tiles, only leaving 1/16th inch grout lines. I had so many blisters and worn out finger tips, sanded down to raw meat, I was ready to give up on the project. But I eventually finished it! I still have that table, but it's in storage right now, waiting for an overhaul. If'n I ever get a Round TUIT some day!

TTUL
Gary

Once you get the old flooring out, take a scrap piece of the new flooring and lay it next to the existing flange.  Then measure the distance to the top of the toilet flange.

The existing toilet flange should be 1/4" above that piece of scrap flooring.

If not, looks like you're going to head back to Lowe's and get you an extension flange (see below).

http://www.lowes.com/pd_253224-138-...1368014634


Get as close to 1/4: above the finished floor as possible.  Extra thick wax rings are okay...to a point.  But they are not the fix-all that folks think they are.

I still say pick the toilet you want and measure it to see where the flange will have to be for the toilet to fit. Don't have to buy the toilet now, just need the measurement of how far the flange must be from the wall for the toilet to fit, unless there was a lot of room between your old toilet and the wall. A few minutes work now might save a lot of work and expense later.

The bathroom is only 30" wide

You sure you didn't take a wrong turn and end up in the broom closet? And I thought our bathroom was small.