ctitus1
New Poster
Posts:13
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| 01-16-2011 04:32 AM |
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I have a 16 ft by 20 ft garage I am trying to turn into a workshop. I has the old ruff sawn oak studs with concrete over that on the exteroir. I saw in one of my magazine that this guy turn his garage into a workshop too. He put in a wood floor over his concrete floor. Now I have a concrete floor too, but it is uneven. I was thinking about taking up to the concrete floor and putting a wood floor on top of the dirt. If anyone has any suggestion let me know. Thank You Chris |
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Gerry_D
Senior Poster
Posts:5311
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| 01-16-2011 08:44 AM |
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Hi Chris, You don't want to put a wood floor atop dirt.
You's need a vapor barrier at the least!
Have you considered an invasion of insects that attack wood? Underneath the floor you would never see them!
By the way, since you are a new poster, how's about dropping down to the new member area and introducing your self to the forum family?
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EZgoing
Veteran Poster
Posts:1998
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| 01-16-2011 09:22 AM |
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Welcome Chris..
I have to agree with Gerry here... dirt and lumber don't mix well. IF the concrete is a fairly strong base but just uneven, and you want to put in a wood floor, is there any chance of you putting in shim blocks on top of the concrete, then putting your wood floor on top of the shims?
This would give you the flat, smooth walking surface, as well as make it much easier on your feet and legs, and give you a place to run the wiring to some of the tools (like the table saw) under the floor so the wires don't become a trip hazard...
If the concrete surface isn't 'that bad', can you maybe put a top coat on it to level and smooth it out?
I'm sure others will be along to offer their suggestions shortly..
As Gerry also suggested, please drop down to the New Members section and give us an introduction of yourself.. and again, welcome to the forum..
Ez
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| Remember, there is no handyman problem that a judicious application of money can't fix. Bradford Co. Pa.
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ctitus1
New Poster
Posts:13
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| 01-16-2011 09:36 AM |
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My concrete is very uneven. I have three sections in my garage. I have a center, left and right. The left and right sides seem to drop towards the out side walls. Should I leave them there or should I try to see if I can level them as much as possible then put a skim coat over that.
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EZgoing
Veteran Poster
Posts:1998
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| 01-16-2011 09:56 AM |
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Chris, I'm a far cry from any sort of flooring expert here, and I know we have some pros that are, that are also members... I'm sure that they will try and help over the next few days...
With that said, if the flooring is solid, just poorly done, I believe if it were mine, and I decided to keep the concrete flooring, I'd find the highest point and plan on about 2" above that for my floor level.. Set some forms, scuff up the surface of the existing floor (if it's smooth on the surface), add a bonding agent, and pour a floor with glass fibers in the concrete mis over the top of what I had..
IF I was going to spend a majority of my time on this floor, and I could afford it, and knowing how my own legs feel after working on a concrete floor all day, I'd really consider putting in a wood floor.. BUT, that would depend on your situation too.. Is this something you will be using just on weekends or will you be spending a majority of your time in there on that floor..? Another thing to consider is if you can afford loosing that much height.. will raising the floor like that screw up overhead doors, entrance doors etc... There are lots of things to consider here, before a logical solution can be had..
Just some thoughts from my warped mind... Others will be along with theirs I'm sure.. lol
Ez
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| Remember, there is no handyman problem that a judicious application of money can't fix. Bradford Co. Pa.
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Dewey
Senior Poster
Posts:9104
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| 01-16-2011 01:43 PM |
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I would agree on not putting wood directly on dirt. your best option if in budget, and if it's as bad as I'm picturing in my evil mind, I would consider taking out the existing cement floor and doing a repour after having the base compacted and adding a layer of gravel. If not in the budget, or can't be done that way for other reasons, I'd go with a 2 to 3" overpour, the problem there is if the sections you mentioned are still not stable the new pour will eventually crack and tip as well. there was also recently a thread on cutting a metal door vs taking the door assembly out and raising the entire entry door you may find benefitial if the new floor will cause door issues. |
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Oldman
Veteran Poster
Posts:4818

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| 01-16-2011 01:56 PM |
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http://www.handymanclub.com/project...rage-floor Here is one of many articles the Club has published. You can find them under PROJECTS at the top banner. Just click on "PROJECTS" and then scroll through the list or click search while there and type in garage projects. |
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| Wishing all a good day and a better one tomorrow from central Mich. in the small town of Owosso |
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ctitus1
New Poster
Posts:13
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| 01-16-2011 02:14 PM |
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Now back putting a wood floor on top of dirt. Now if I use pressure treated wood then put 1 1/2 ridgid foam between the the floor joist. could I put that floor sturcture on top of cement blocks then put a vapor barrier over that before I put plywood down. I am trying to find the cheapest way to do this . Thank You Chris |
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scooterdown
Senior Poster
Posts:7217
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| 01-16-2011 03:37 PM |
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What state are you in? I would dig out and pour concrete. In the Chicago area I would put heat in the floor. Maybe Geothermal Warm & Cool. If you still want a wood floor look at it as a deck and see what you come up with. May need to dig out to get the headroom.
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| Stop The Cry'n and Do Some Try'n.......
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Wolf
Advanced Poster
Posts:560
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| 01-17-2011 09:35 AM |
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I would put the vapor barrier down first. Even though you use pressure treated wood moisture will still affect, just not as soon or as much. |
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And this too shall pass!
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Pam and Wolf
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SWilson
Veteran Poster
Posts:2739
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| 01-18-2011 09:44 PM |
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I'm not a floor specialist, but I have built a few wooden porches in my younger days. In those days, we used to slant or tilt the floor away from the house to run the rain water off. Your post makes me wonder if the right and left sides were intentionally built with a tilt or if that is because the earth under the footings shifted allowing the outsides to slightly sink. What I'm saying, if the slab is cracked by stress, then it is not by design. If it is lined to have the floor to tilt to the outside, then it may be designed to run the water from the center of the garage. Just a question in my mind. Hope to hear your clarification.  |
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Steve - Don't fight life, learn from it. - Nam vet 68-70-Shopsmith owner (1984 and 1985) Life Mbr - 4/2003
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