Thread inserts | Handyman Club of America

Joined: 7/29/2008
Posts: 82

Some years ago I used "thread inserts" made by the PEM company for sheet metal. (also PEM nuts) I think I have seen these for wood also. Drill a hole and squash this metal thing in and you have a machine screw thread to fasten to. Where can I find these? Randy
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Joined: 6/14/2007
Posts: 248

You can find them at any hardware store- Ace,Home Depot, Lowes, etc. There are many different styles of them. Some hammer in with teeth on the outside or top. Some thread into wood with very coarse threads on the outside and machine screw threads on the inside.
Washington, NJ

Joined: 4/7/2008
Posts: 199

Randy,

There are several types of thread inserts on the market today at big box stores and hardware stores.

Eric, Sebring,Fl Life Member

Joined: 7/20/2007
Posts: 2710

Randy I posted this very same topic some time back when I was rebuilding a play-scape wood swing,slide etc. for my grandson. I got many many replies with sites to visit for different applications. Maybe one of the members will remember that discussion and can give you a link to it. It was very informative and helpful for me. I remember Home Depot didn't have a very good selection for my needs but may have yours.

"Oldman" Wishing ALL a good day and a better one tomorrow from the central town of Owosso, Mi.48867

Joined: 6/15/2007
Posts: 1894

The first ones you described (for sheetmetal) sounded like Rivet Nuts:

While those may work very well in wood, they really are intended for the thin materials shown. Other types intended for wood come in a variety of types:

Bob Hoyer ...... Bremerton, WA

Joined: 6/13/2007
Posts: 779

I use this type of insert quit often,

I made my own insert tool from an old screw driver. The outside of the bit equals the hole size and it is ground down to fit inside the insert. This allows complete contact with the slots in the insert to drive it in.

http://www.handymanclub.com/uploadedFiles/Community/Handyman_Forum/bit.JPG

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>Click to learn more about me The Wood Wizard
SE Wisconsin
Member since 2000
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bit.JPG (7283 bytes)

Joined: 5/15/2009
Posts: 665

Often when you try to drive these inserts in w/ a screwdriver you'll break the tabbs, instead insert a bolt (preferably w/ allen head) w/ a lock nut against it, then use an allen wrench to turn it into the wood. Once in place, back off the locking nut and unscrew the bolt. Hope this helps.

Anything worth dewing is worth dewing well! Dewing my time in southwest IN.

Joined: 7/29/2008
Posts: 82

Gosh, I remember (?) inserts and "Key" inserts when dealing with metal. Both, you bored hole bigger, tapped for bigger thread. screwed the thing in and wit "Key" pound down the 4 things on the side with a special tool. (Easily made) to lock it in. The ? one was for when you strip out threads for your spark plugs and such. Drill & tap to a bigger size and screw the "adaptor" in. I went online and found some gnarly ones for wood. With some adhesive they would work well. $2.50 each is robbery for 1/4 - 20 thds. I guess I will have to get new motor for my cheapo lathe and make some. It can do that just fine. Or just glue in a nut @ 5 cents. Thanks folks for the info. Randy
Try to keep all body parts attached

Joined: 4/12/2009
Posts: 216

randyinaloha wrote:

Gosh, I remember (?) inserts and "Key" inserts when dealing with metal. Both, you bored hole bigger, tapped for bigger thread. screwed the thing in and wit "Key" pound down the 4 things on the side with a special tool. (Easily made) to lock it in. The ? one was for when you strip out threads for your spark plugs and such. Drill & tap to a bigger size and screw the "adaptor" in. I went online and found some gnarly ones for wood. With some adhesive they would work well. $2.50 each is robbery for 1/4 - 20 thds. I guess I will have to get new motor for my cheapo lathe and make some. It can do that just fine. Or just glue in a nut @ 5 cents. Thanks folks for the info. Randy
Try to keep all body parts attached

Hi Randy - I guess I'm a little confused on whether you are looking for threaded inserts or t-nuts. t-nuts are usually pounded in with the bolt/screw coming in from the opposite side. Inserts usually have wood threads on the outside and machine threads on the inside. Drill hole, screw the thing in and then attach whatever. If you are looking for t-nuts I just picked up some on e-bay for $3/100.

Bompa and Woodnut posted pics of threaded inserts. I'll post one of a t-nut.

Cheers John Schaben "I haven't failed, just discovered a lot of ways that don't work"
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Joined: 6/13/2007
Posts: 779

I looked at the PEM site and they look like metal fasteners. I didn't see anything for wood.

I didn't think of the T-nuts that you pound in and use machine screws for attachment. If you use those and it is something that will be assembled and disassembled a few times I would suggest driving one or two drywall screws in the notches of the T-nut so it doesn't get pushed out with repeated usage.A couple 3/4" drywall screws will hold them in place very well.

http://www.handymanclub.com/uploadedFiles/Community/Handyman_Forum/t-nut.gif

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>Click to learn more about me The Wood Wizard
SE Wisconsin
Member since 2000

Joined: 4/12/2009
Posts: 216

Woodwizard wrote:

I looked at the PEM site and they look like metal fasteners. I didn't see anything for wood.

I didn't think of the T-nuts that you pound in and use machine screws for attachment. If you use those and it is something that will be assembled and disassembled a few times I would suggest driving one or two drywall screws in the notches of the T-nut so it doesn't get pushed out with repeated usage.A couple 3/4" drywall screws will hold them in place very well.

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>Click to learn more about me The Wood Wizard
SE Wisconsin
Member since 2000

Hi Wizard, yeah, usually I will epoxy 'em in if they aren't sandwiched between something else. I had to go shopping for the things cause I needed 50 to make a cam board and wasn't about to pay 2 bucks or so per.

What made me think of these was Randy said he pounded them in. All the threaded inserts I've seen that were hammered in were for MDF or particle board. He also said something about clinching the prongs. If you use these on thin stock they can be clinched... Guess, bottom line is, I don't know what he really had, just posting some choices and let him figure out what works for his situation.....

Cheers John Schaben "I haven't failed, just discovered a lot of ways that don't work"

Joined: 7/20/2007
Posts: 2710

http://www.ezlok.com/Home/index.html

800.234.5613

240 E. Rosecrans Ave, Gardena, CA 90248

v–310.323.5613 f–310.353.4444

email: ezlok@ezlok.com

"Oldman" Wishing ALL a good day and a better one tomorrow from the central town of Owosso, Mi.48867

Joined: 7/29/2008
Posts: 82

Oldman- The type on the right look like they would work well. In this application, I made a box and to put a lid on it I glued rails to the insides. Now I will place the lid on, drill through lid and rails so they line up correctly. Remove lid and expand hole to fit inserts. I wanted machine screws because lid will be removed every 3 months or so. The EZ-LOK look like they would work fine. I will try local hardware store as I don't want to pay a lot for them. The T inserts might work also but don't know how wide the base is. If they fit I could press them in with a C clamp from the bottom. This project is almost finished and I will do a write-up with pics when done. Randy
Try to keep all body parts attached

Joined: 4/12/2009
Posts: 216

randyinaloha wrote:

Oldman- The type on the right look like they would work well. In this application, I made a box and to put a lid on it I glued rails to the insides. Now I will place the lid on, drill through lid and rails so they line up correctly. Remove lid and expand hole to fit inserts. I wanted machine screws because lid will be removed every 3 months or so. The EZ-LOK look like they would work fine. I will try local hardware store as I don't want to pay a lot for them. The T inserts might work also but don't know how wide the base is. If they fit I could press them in with a C clamp from the bottom. This project is almost finished and I will do a write-up with pics when done. Randy
Try to keep all body parts attached

Hi Randy, Ok, now I understand what you're doing, t-nuts wouldn't work out to well, just keep pulling out. I get the threaded inserts at either the local Ace or TruValue. I haven't seen them at the HD, but then I haven't been actively looking for them lately.
Cheers John Schaben "I haven't failed, just discovered a lot of ways that don't work"

Joined: 4/12/2009
Posts: 216

Hi Randy..... tripped over these looking for something else. Thought you might be interested:

http://cgi.ebay.com/8-32-Knock-In-Wood-Insert-Steel_W0QQitemZ290348017458QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item439a172732

Cheers John Schaben "I haven't failed, just discovered a lot of ways that don't work"

Joined: 7/29/2008
Posts: 82

Thanks John, I could mass produce those for a buck less. Maybe if my project is wanted I will do that. As I am limited in income right now, I think will go the cheapest route and offer free upgrades. Thinking square hole with square alum threaded insert. Yes square holes can be made easily. Or any other shape. I have not seen any ads lately but not have been looking. Randy
Try to keep all body parts attached