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Joined: 8/15/2007
Posts: 36
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I have the outside wall on the house torn out to the sheet rock. Repairing termite damage. I'm ready to go back with insulation, but pulled all the fiberglass and paper barrier out when I started work. I would appreciate suggestions on insulation (I'm leaning toward spraying stick on cellulose fiber). My important question is where to put the new vapor barrier. Do I cut strips and clue it to the sheet rock, then insulate over that? Or do I fill in the studs with insulation and vapor barrier over that before adding the sheathing and vinyl.
Thanks, Bob
Jack of most trades, but master of none.
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Joined: 6/14/2007
Posts: 356
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I don't think you would want to put a vapor barrier between the drywall and the insulation. I'm not familiar with the type of insulation you mentioned. Can you apply the spray on cellulose before having the outside wall sheathing in place or is it the type of insulation where you would drill holes in the sheathing and then pump in the material to fill up the bays or is it like the spray on expanding foam stuff you see on TOH?
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Joined: 7/5/2007
Posts: 501
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Vapor barrier always goes between the hot, humid, side and the cold side. In nearly all places, this is between the drywall and the insulation, between the inside of the house and the insulation. You want to keep the moisture from getting to the insulation, making the insulation wet and losing the insulating properties.
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Joined: 7/20/2007
Posts: 2710
 
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Your working from the outside in so the insulation needs to be installed in the reverse order. It's near impossible to install faced insulation in the wall cavity at this point. What we have done is buy a roll of roslin paper (brown butchers paper). Working from the outside or exterior. Staple and tape it to a stud on one side, fold or form it to the corner of the stud/drywall and extend it across the cavity to the opposite stud where it's folded to form a 90° angle back along the stud. Staple and tape it in place. Now you have a vapor barrier in place so you can install "UN-FACED" insulation in the cavity using a little glue/adhesive between the paper and the insulation to hold it in place. Another method is to pull the paper away from the faced insulation just enough to access the paper strip used to staple the insulation in place when working on the "Interior" which your not in this case, and fold the tab or strip inside the stud for stapling instead of stapling it on the interior side of the stud. We tape and staple for a good seal. Good Luck and it will be nice to hear how the project turns out and what worked. Other members in the same situation can learn from your project. So take what you need and leave what you can.
"Oldman"
Wishing ALL a good day and a better one tomorrow from the central town of Owosso, Mi.48867
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Joined: 6/15/2007
Posts: 1894
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You didn't say where you are located. If you happen to live in a tropical type of enviroment, like Florida or Hawaii, as Racer said the barrier goes between the hot, humid side and the cold side. That's the outside in a tropical environment. If you are in a colder climate, install as Oldman said. If you have an open stud situation, batt fiberglass insulation makes the most sense to me.
Bob Hoyer ...... Bremerton, WA
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Joined: 8/15/2007
Posts: 36
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Thanks for everyone's responses. I live in north central Arkansas just outside Russellville. The house has 6" walls. The outside sheathing and fiberglass insulation is off the house. The paper on the outside of the sheet rock is in good condition. I had thought about using a roll of house wrap and work along the sheet rock and around the studs from stud to stud and seal it that way, but the wrap is suppose to breathe. My next thought was to use a good paint and simply paint the barrier on, but then I have the problem with anything sticking.
The cellulose fiber can be stuck/glued on by introducing water to tip of the nozzle as you apply it. Like insulating the inside of a tin building. I thought about the foam insulation, but figured cost would exceed the benefit.
I'm going to think about the craft paper a little more, bot may opt for the house wrap. Does that sound like it would work? Stick it to the sheet rock like the craft paper. Either way, a vapor barrier against the sheet rock would save on heating and cooling simply by the amount of total square footage you are conditioning. Thanks for any further discussion.
Bob
Jack of most trades, but master of none.
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Joined: 7/20/2007
Posts: 2710
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 --> Builders Paper (2) Builders+Paper --> 
 --> Moisture Guard Paper (2) Moisture+Guard+Paper --> 
 --> Red Rosin Paper (2) Red+Rosin+Paper --> This builders paper can be purchase with Moisture Guard. It's fairly inexpensive and should work in your situation. It's sold at most Big Box stores.
"Oldman"
Wishing ALL a good day and a better one tomorrow from the central town of Owosso, Mi.48867
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