Help !     I removed a horizontal 275 steel oil tank last weekend from the 200+ year old stone wall basement of my house,  which had this tank resting on a ledge {one long and one short side of the tank}and galvanized pipes under the other two support spots in front. . The problem was I could smell fuel oil, but after a through cleaning of both the tanks outside and the stone wall  with serious industrial oil cleaning/degreaser material and soaked up the mess with     with used horse stall pine shavings {very absorbant and easy to clean up and dispose of}. . . .  I couldn't find any leaks, but the smell still existed and I didn't fill the tank last Spring as I usually would. . . . . Still no leaks !     So I pulled the tank anyhow to clean/paint and check it where I could see completely around it. . . . .  I drained the tank and the fuel was as clean as if it had come out of the delivery hose. . . . . However after I put more of this degreaser in the tank, and added about 50 gallons of water, one 1/4" stream of water/cleaner came streaming out of the tank where it had set on the back wall. . . .  Evidently the sludge in the bottom kept it from leaking badly. . . .  And there was a 1/16th " hole near the top on the back side. . . . .

So I'm going to replace this horizontal tank with a verticle one paint it and place it near the outside wall where the furnace is now located in the utility room. . .  . My fuel supplier said they would do it for $1200.00 , but as this isn't exactly "brain work" mostly "brawn" I know I can do it myself for 1/2 of that. . . .   What should I expect to pay for a new 275 gallon steel tank ?   And any other tips would be helpful. . . . . Also, I noticed that there was no standpipe device at the outlet, and I wonder how the fuel filter was always so free on sludge and clean ?

Barry

Barry:

What about ck.ing with a farm supply co. and maybe a vynel or plastic tank that would never rust out on you.

jdeer is into farming and might have a solution for you. Try a PM message to him and read your own. I'm still interested in that adhesive you were looking for from Popular Mechanics a short time back.

Barry,

Those tanks are repairable. One system actually coats the tank with a fiberglass type material. I think it goes half way (at least) up the sides. Almost all of those 275 gal. tanks that start to leak, do so near the bottom. The oil floats above the moisture and the draw is usually about 3 or 4 inches up from the bottom. I had an old tank at my last house, but was lucky that it never started to leak.

The price of steel has driven everything up, but that price sounds a bit steep. My 500 gal propane tank, new, costs about $1300 installed. That's a heck of a lot bigger and stronger tank the the fuel oil tank 

Good luck, let us know what you end doing.....

Barry

Metal is the most popular, possibly the only choice, for tanks.  As to the filter being clean that would have a lot to do with contaminants having time to settle to the bottom of the tank, after filling it but before the fuel was used.  Typically filters on storage tanks will outlast filters on service tanks (stationary vs portable) by years sometimes.  Many people don't even use filters on stationary storage tanks, they just don't use any fuel for several hours after delivery to allow time for the contaminants in the tank to settle.  You will get water (& if it is a steel tank, rust).  This is due to condensation in the tank.  Your tank outlet should be an inch or a little more from the bottom of the tank.  This helps keep prevent water and other contaminants in the tank.  One end of the tank (usually the opposite end from the outlet) should have a drain plug in the bottom.  The tank should have a slight slope towards the end with the drain plug.  If you run your tank empty, you can take the plug out and drain the remaining fuel out.  This will contain any water in the tank.  There might even be a valve that you can install that would allow you to drain some fuel off even if the tank isn't empty.  We don't use valves as it makes it to easy to steal fuel, only a concern if the tank is kept outside.  What would be a concern inside would be someone accidentally turning the valve on, so I would consider some method of locking it.  Ideally the tank should be drained yearly, but most are lucky if they are drained once every few years.  The tank should also be on some type of stand, not directly on the floor.  This allows air movement around the tank, no sitting in a wet spot, and it allows you to drain it occasionally. 

My understanding of fuel oil tanks in houses is a little short.  What I do know is the ones I have seen have a fill pipe and a vent pipe, both to the outside.  The other thing that seems to quite common is a fuel gauge on the tank.  It fits into a bunghole on the top of the tank and is marked in quarters.  As to cost I have no idea.  I don't think I would get a used tank if I was putting it in the basement.  That isn't a job I would want to do once, never mind twice.  A new tank with proper maintenance should outlast you and maybe your kids.  The only other place to check is a metal fabrication shop.  Sometimes custom built isn't much if anymore than having to order one in.  Custom built has the advantage of being built to fit.  It would still need all the features of a factory built tank.  Hope this helps.    

275 gallon oil tank

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Reply to: sale-396249891@craigslist.org
Date: 2007-08-13, 6:03PM EDT


275 gallon vertical oil tank no leaks came out of our torn down house has gages and fill pipe etc.
$85.00 or b.o. taking room up in front yard.

• Location: rumford
• it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests

PostingID: 396249891


NOW THATS CHEAP!!!

Barry, check this out Tank

Jack

JMCDANIEL has posted a site simular to what I was talking about. I know I've seen these tanks on different farms around here. Maybe even less expensive than the Rubber-Maid tanks. How about a Google search??? I would never replace the tank with another metal one. Maybe thats why I see so many around here sitting in front yards with FREE writen on them.

Barry:

I'm still curious what you found out about that adhesive that can be used on rust from the Populas Mechanics magazine you came across. Any new info???

Re:  Adhesive for car rust repair patches - I've read and re-read the article but it doesn't give any brand names, my local NAPA guys never heard of it, but I haven't checked with my auto-body supply folks. . . . .  The most obvious problem I see is that rust usually is in places that are hard to reach , if at all, and this product has to be used on CLEAN surfaces. . . .  Also it comes like some epoxies in a syringe type container with two outlets. . . .   I've never found them to be useful as you can't control the 2 parts and weather certainly plays an important part when using resins. . . . .   So I guess its back to basic body panel/patch  repairs. . . .  .

Barry

JDeere,

Thanks for the input. . . .  I'm not sure whether "plastic tanks" are "code" yet here in Maryland. . . .   I have found a supplier within 25 miles and can get a 275 gallon steel tank for $350.00. . . .  That is less than what I thought and you are right about air circulation. . . .  That's why this tank failed because the installer set two sides on a stone foundation ledge, not using the two back legs and not keeping the tank away from the damp walls. . . . .  I was surprised that the tank had no 'stand pipe' at the outlet, and the good nres is the fuel filter is located inline with the supply line right before it goes into the burner. . . .  And is aways clean, but replaced annually . . . . This tank lasted 30 years installed wrong, so I figure with a new vertical one, painted properly/regularly, installed properly it will outlive me. . . . . {at 65 it's amazing how I now determine many things on a 20-30 year basis } And I can install it outside within 3 feet of the furnace for the to be insulated supply and return lines. . . . . And high enough off the ground , about 30 inches on a gravel pad, over plastic sheeting, with four concrete cap blocks under the pipe flanges for leveling purposes. . I am waiting for one estimate and if it goes over $600.00, I'll do it myself !

Thanks again everyone for your ideas,

Barry

My old fuel supply company {bought out by a huge distributor, does this sound familiar} gave me the name {off the record}of a fellow who 'used to do their tank work and was reasonable. . . . .  Well reasonable turned out to be $1,165.00 for a new tank and $880 bucks for a used one. . .. . I can buy a vertical 275 gallon new tank for $348.00. . . .  Guess what I'm gonna do ?

Also the old horizontal tank, much to my surprise didn't have a bottom 'stand pipe' and the supply pipe was located on the bottom. . . .  I should have put a level on the tank while it was still installed, I wonder if they had it tilted back so sludge would gather at the back. . . .  And it did have sludge ! ! !

Barry

It is suppose to tilt back slightly.  There should be a drain plug at that end and the tilt helps when draining the tank.